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The Timeless Tortoise Shell: The History and Recipe of Chicken Adobo

The age-old question of whether the chicken or the egg came first is often met with ambiguity, much like determining the origins of Filipino adobo versus its Spanish counterpart. In this illuminating exploration, we venture into the rich tapestry of culinary history as we recreate a 1529 chicken adobo recipe from "El Libro de Cocina" by Ruperto de Nola, shedding light on this delicious dish's captivating background.

Filipino History through Flavors

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June 12th marks Filipino Independence Day, a celebration of the Philippines’ liberation from Spanish rule in 1898. However, the road to sovereignty was complicated, particularly by subsequent American intervention. In reviewing this narrative, one cannot help but reflect on the gaps in education regarding significant historical events like the Filipino-American War—a brutal conflict largely overshadowed in American curriculums.

Nevertheless, this episode of culinary exploration leads us not just to celebrate freedom, but to honor the profound Spanish influence on Filipino cuisine, specifically through the iconic adobo. Today, we delve into crafting a chicken adobo using a recipe that dates back nearly five centuries, illustrating how foundational flavors shaped contemporary dishes.

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The 1529 Adobo Recipe

The original Spanish term for adobo, “adobado,” outlines a rustic recipe involving hen, fatty bacon, and a variety of unique ingredients. The detailed recipe navigates through a colorful mix of toasted almonds, fruits preserved in honey, chicken livers, and distinct spices. This historical rendition contrasts sharply with the modern variations many are accustomed to today, emphasizing the logical evolution of culinary traditions.

To recreate the original recipe, you will need:

  • 1.5 kg of chicken

  • 3 chicken livers

  • 120 grams of fatty European-style bacon

  • 1 chopped onion

  • 1 cup toasted almonds (slivered or whole)

  • 2 preserved pears in syrup or honey

  • 1 large slice of crustless, toasted bread

  • 235 ml white wine vinegar

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  • 1 liter of salted chicken broth

  • Various spices (such as galangal, nutmeg, clove)

  • ¼ cup sugar

  • 1 tablespoon parsley

  • Cinnamon and sugar for garnish

These ingredients unite to create a sauce that must bear a hint of sourness, a reflection of the adobo's heritage.

A Culinary Journey

The cooking process is as historical as the ingredients themselves. Bacon is gently fried while onions are caramelized, filling the kitchen with savory aromas. The chicken is introduced next, lightly browned, followed by sautéing the livers. A slice of bread steeped in vinegar absorbs the essence needed to bind the flavors of the sauce together.

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This Renaissance-era sauce differs fundamentally from contemporary marinades, showcasing a medieval approach that uses bread as a thickener. This method connects cooking beyond mere sustenance, intertwining culture, preservation methods, and seasons of exploration.

The Spice Trail: Mingling Cultures

The concept of adobo traverses through time and geography. Historically, the term was rooted in the act of marinating in vinegar, derived from the Latin "adobar," and traces its linguistic origins back to the French "adouber." The connection to preserving meats for long sea voyages introduces an interesting layer to the narrative—a tale of spices that fueled global exploration.

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In the early 16th century, Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan aimed to unveil a new spice route. Remarkably, many of the ingredients preserved aboard ships were precursors to what we now recognize as adobo. The history reveals a fascinating intersection at which Spanish and Filipino can be viewed as both distinct and united in the realm of culinary evolution.

The Filipino Adaptation

Through subsequent centuries, Filipino adobo emerged as a unique iteration, infused with flavors from various cultures, including Chinese influence through soy sauce. The native dishes, such as kinilaw, continued to evolve, enveloping local ingredients and techniques while echoing the influences of past colonizers.

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The dish represents more than just a meal; it embodies a rich history of intercontinental exchange and cultural adaptation. In modern kitchens, adobo is a household staple, often interpreted in countless variations that reflect familial preferences and personal creativity, leading to the conclusion that perhaps everybody’s mother makes the best adobo.

A Taste of Tradition

Finally, the end product—a plate of 1529 chicken adobo—is served. The balance of sweetness from the sugar and preserved fruit merges unexpectedly with the vinegar, creating a depth of flavor that resonates with history. The accompanying spices paint a vivid picture of the aromatic landscape familiar to our ancestors.

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As the world continues to celebrate cultural diversity through food, the question of which adobo came first may forever remain unanswered, yet its significance is undeniable. Both Filipino and Spanish adobos coexist, becoming intertwined in flavor and sentiment—much like a story waiting to be shared with every plate.

This tale of adobo invites us to appreciate that, regardless of the chicken or the egg, our culinary heritage is a beautiful amalgamation of history, culture, and personal ties. So, whether it be your mother's adobo or a 500-year-old recipe, the unifying essence remains that familiar taste of home.


For more behind-the-scenes culinary explorations, follow the journey on "Tasting History” and experience the depths of culinary history unfold with each bite.