The Evolution of the Tomato: From Villain to Culinary Star
The tomato—a versatile ingredient found in countless dishes around the globe—has a transformative story that's as rich as its flavor. From sauces and soups to fresh salads and pizzas, the journey of the tomato from the New World to its acceptance in European and American cuisines is fascinating. In this article, we delve into an early Italian recipe called Pomodori Farciti all'Erbette, or tomatoes stuffed with herbs, and explore the historical context that shaped the tomato's reputation.
The Historical Recipe: Pomodori Farciti all'Erbette
Today's recipe is borrowed from "Il Cuoco Galante" (The Gallant Cook) by Vincenzo Corrado, first published in the Kingdom of Naples in 1773. This cookbook is notable for its early inclusion of tomatoes in ways that mirror modern Italian cuisine. The dish comprises tomatoes stuffed with a mixture of herbs, ham, and cheese, highlighting the simplistic elegance of Italian cooking.
To prepare Pomodori Farciti all'Erbette, you will require several medium-sized tomatoes, Italian parsley, onion, sorrel (or its substitutes), mint, prosciutto, egg yolks, provatura cheese (or fresh mozzarella), along with salt, pepper, and olive oil.
Begin by mincing the herbs and mixing them in a bowl with chopped prosciutto, salt, pepper, grated cheese, and egg yolks until it forms a paste. After hollowing out the tomatoes, stuff them generously with the mixture. While the original recipe suggests frying, a brief baking in the oven at 350°F (175°C) can ensure the raw egg is safely cooked. The final product is an aromatic and visually appealing dish that invites summer flavors to your table.
The Journey of the Tomato: Acceptance and Rebranding
Despite its contemporary status, the tomato was initially met with suspicion and disdain upon its arrival in Europe. Native to Central and South America, tomatoes were cultivated as early as 700 AD, particularly by the Aztecs. However, when Spanish conquistadors transported tomatoes back to Europe, they found themselves shrouded in myths—some considered them poisonous, associating them with nightshade plants.
The esteemed Italian herbalist Pietro Andre Mattioli referred to the tomato as the "apple of gold." Still, the negativity surrounding the fruit persisted, primarily due to its association with lead poisoning. The elite in Europe ate from pewter plates, and the acidic nature of tomatoes would leach lead, leading many to believe that tomatoes were responsible for illnesses. This misconception caused the abandonment of tomatoes by Northern Europeans while Southern Europeans continued to enjoy them, particularly among the poorer communities.
By the late 18th century, tomatoes began to gain popularity, especially in Italian cooking, thanks to common dishes prepared by cooks in Naples. Eventually, the famed pizza Margherita was born in the 1880s when Raffaele Esposito created a dish for Queen Margherita of Savoy, solidifying the tomato's place in culinary history.
The Tomato in America: Overcoming Stigmas
Throughout the 19th century, tomatoes faced significant skepticism in the United States. Many dismissed them as "sour trash," and even referred to them disparagingly in various publications. However, as the love for Italian cuisine blossomed in America, especially with the introduction of pizza, the tomato slowly found its way onto American plates.
A quirky legal battle heightens the tomato's legacy in America: in 1893, the U.S. Supreme Court ruled that, despite its botanical classification as a fruit, the tomato was considered a vegetable for tariff purposes. This ruling was a humorous twist in the tomato's narrative, as it highlighted the conflict between botanical classification and common perception.
Conclusion: The Tomato Today
The modern-day tomato is celebrated worldwide, regarded as a staple ingredient in myriad cuisines. Its descent from the shadow of toxicity to the spotlight of gastronomic delight is a testament to culinary evolution and acceptance. The Pomodori Farciti all'Erbette represents just a glimpse into the tomato's rich history—a fruit that not only nourishes but also connects cultures.
Whether you’re cooking this classic dish or simply enjoying a slice of pizza, remember the extraordinary journey that this humble ingredient has taken to earn its place in kitchens around the world.
Part 1/8:
The Evolution of the Tomato: From Villain to Culinary Star
The tomato—a versatile ingredient found in countless dishes around the globe—has a transformative story that's as rich as its flavor. From sauces and soups to fresh salads and pizzas, the journey of the tomato from the New World to its acceptance in European and American cuisines is fascinating. In this article, we delve into an early Italian recipe called Pomodori Farciti all'Erbette, or tomatoes stuffed with herbs, and explore the historical context that shaped the tomato's reputation.
The Historical Recipe: Pomodori Farciti all'Erbette
Part 2/8:
Today's recipe is borrowed from "Il Cuoco Galante" (The Gallant Cook) by Vincenzo Corrado, first published in the Kingdom of Naples in 1773. This cookbook is notable for its early inclusion of tomatoes in ways that mirror modern Italian cuisine. The dish comprises tomatoes stuffed with a mixture of herbs, ham, and cheese, highlighting the simplistic elegance of Italian cooking.
To prepare Pomodori Farciti all'Erbette, you will require several medium-sized tomatoes, Italian parsley, onion, sorrel (or its substitutes), mint, prosciutto, egg yolks, provatura cheese (or fresh mozzarella), along with salt, pepper, and olive oil.
Part 3/8:
Begin by mincing the herbs and mixing them in a bowl with chopped prosciutto, salt, pepper, grated cheese, and egg yolks until it forms a paste. After hollowing out the tomatoes, stuff them generously with the mixture. While the original recipe suggests frying, a brief baking in the oven at 350°F (175°C) can ensure the raw egg is safely cooked. The final product is an aromatic and visually appealing dish that invites summer flavors to your table.
The Journey of the Tomato: Acceptance and Rebranding
Part 4/8:
Despite its contemporary status, the tomato was initially met with suspicion and disdain upon its arrival in Europe. Native to Central and South America, tomatoes were cultivated as early as 700 AD, particularly by the Aztecs. However, when Spanish conquistadors transported tomatoes back to Europe, they found themselves shrouded in myths—some considered them poisonous, associating them with nightshade plants.
Part 5/8:
The esteemed Italian herbalist Pietro Andre Mattioli referred to the tomato as the "apple of gold." Still, the negativity surrounding the fruit persisted, primarily due to its association with lead poisoning. The elite in Europe ate from pewter plates, and the acidic nature of tomatoes would leach lead, leading many to believe that tomatoes were responsible for illnesses. This misconception caused the abandonment of tomatoes by Northern Europeans while Southern Europeans continued to enjoy them, particularly among the poorer communities.
Part 6/8:
By the late 18th century, tomatoes began to gain popularity, especially in Italian cooking, thanks to common dishes prepared by cooks in Naples. Eventually, the famed pizza Margherita was born in the 1880s when Raffaele Esposito created a dish for Queen Margherita of Savoy, solidifying the tomato's place in culinary history.
The Tomato in America: Overcoming Stigmas
Throughout the 19th century, tomatoes faced significant skepticism in the United States. Many dismissed them as "sour trash," and even referred to them disparagingly in various publications. However, as the love for Italian cuisine blossomed in America, especially with the introduction of pizza, the tomato slowly found its way onto American plates.
Part 7/8:
A quirky legal battle heightens the tomato's legacy in America: in 1893, the U.S. Supreme Court ruled that, despite its botanical classification as a fruit, the tomato was considered a vegetable for tariff purposes. This ruling was a humorous twist in the tomato's narrative, as it highlighted the conflict between botanical classification and common perception.
Conclusion: The Tomato Today
The modern-day tomato is celebrated worldwide, regarded as a staple ingredient in myriad cuisines. Its descent from the shadow of toxicity to the spotlight of gastronomic delight is a testament to culinary evolution and acceptance. The Pomodori Farciti all'Erbette represents just a glimpse into the tomato's rich history—a fruit that not only nourishes but also connects cultures.
Part 8/8:
Whether you’re cooking this classic dish or simply enjoying a slice of pizza, remember the extraordinary journey that this humble ingredient has taken to earn its place in kitchens around the world.