A Journey Through Panettone: Tradition and Controversy
When one thinks of an Italian Christmas, certain delights immediately spring to mind: the sweet aroma of panettone wafting through the air, and the amusing tune of Dominick the Italian Christmas Donkey. In a recent episode of "Tasting History," host Max Miller delves into the historic Italian recipe for panettone, specifically from an 1891 cookbook by Pellegrino Artusi. His quest was met with a sprinkle of controversy, as this traditional treat is typically known for its painstaking preparation involving yeast and time—a stark contrast to Artusi’s recipe, which substitutes baking soda and cream of tartar for yeast.
Pellegrino Artusi, often hailed as the Father of Italian Cuisine, features in this culinary exploration primarily due to his notable recipe, Panettone Marietta. While the book “La Scienza in Cucina: L'Arte di Mangiar Bene" is not contentious, the specific recipe raises eyebrows as it diverges from tradition by omitting yeast. Typically, making authentic panettone is a labor of love, requiring up to three days of careful rising and baking. However, Artusi's approach is markedly different, presumably due to his desire for efficiency.
Artusi’s introduction to the recipe is peppered with charm as he praises his cook Marietta Sabatini—whose name is immortalized in the recipe—for her skill and earnestness. As a housekeeper turned assistant, Marietta was likely pressed for time, which may have influenced Artusi to simplify this festive culinary creation.
An Easy-Peasy Recipe
With the ingredients gathered—from sifted cake flour to sultanas, butter, and zest—Miller sets out to recreate the dish. Early in the preparation, he humorously acknowledges the misstep of using rum instead of water to plump the sultanas, which he notes would work just fine in this concoction. He instructs on mixing techniques, ensuring not to over-saturate the batter, a crucial tip for achieving a well-balanced panettone.
Following the mixing and preparation, he places the panettone in molds for baking. The assembly process appears straightforward, providing a stark contrast to the traditional method that often intimidates home bakers.
Storytime: Legends of Panettone
As the batter bakes, Miller regales viewers with the fanciful legends surrounding the origin of panettone. Two tales emerge during the Christmas Eve of the 1490s under Duke Ludovico Sforza's reign in Milan, both attributing the creation of the festive bread to resourceful cooks and noblemen. Although the origins of panettone are shrouded in myth, it emphasizes the enchanting allure that food traditions carry through generations.
Furthermore, Miller takes time to explore the etymology of the word "panettone," suggesting it might derive from the words panetto (meaning “loaf”) and the suffix -one to denote size, rather than any connection to characters named Tony.
The Verdict: A Clash of Textures
Post-baking, the panettone emerges with a golden dome, though Miller notes that many sultanas sank to the bottom of the cake—a common challenge for first-time bakers. Upon tasting, he remarks on its dryness but appreciates the flavor, concluding that while it is palatable, it does not compare to the more traditional Milanese panettone.
Strikingly, Miller observes that while the flavors of both varieties are quite similar, the texture of the quicker recipe is more bread-like than cake-like, attributing this difference to the fermentation process of traditional recipes.
Ultimately, he humorously confesses that despite the simplicity of Artusi’s method, one might as well purchase their panettone from a reputable baker rather than opt for this straightforward yet distinctively less satisfying variant.
Max Miller wraps up the episode by emphasizing the beauty of culinary traditions and the joy that food can bring during the festive season. Even with the playful banter over which style of panettone reigns supreme, the heart of the matter is the spirit of appreciation for Christmas past and present. As the holiday spirit glimmers in the air, he bids farewell while wishing viewers a merry Christmas, reminding them to savor the season with a slice of panettone—be it homemade or store-bought.
In conclusion, whether one embraces the age-old traditional recipes or elects for simpler modern alternatives, the holiday season always beckons with warmth, sweetness, and the joy of shared feasting.
Part 1/7:
A Journey Through Panettone: Tradition and Controversy
When one thinks of an Italian Christmas, certain delights immediately spring to mind: the sweet aroma of panettone wafting through the air, and the amusing tune of Dominick the Italian Christmas Donkey. In a recent episode of "Tasting History," host Max Miller delves into the historic Italian recipe for panettone, specifically from an 1891 cookbook by Pellegrino Artusi. His quest was met with a sprinkle of controversy, as this traditional treat is typically known for its painstaking preparation involving yeast and time—a stark contrast to Artusi’s recipe, which substitutes baking soda and cream of tartar for yeast.
The Father of Italian Cuisine
Part 2/7:
Pellegrino Artusi, often hailed as the Father of Italian Cuisine, features in this culinary exploration primarily due to his notable recipe, Panettone Marietta. While the book “La Scienza in Cucina: L'Arte di Mangiar Bene" is not contentious, the specific recipe raises eyebrows as it diverges from tradition by omitting yeast. Typically, making authentic panettone is a labor of love, requiring up to three days of careful rising and baking. However, Artusi's approach is markedly different, presumably due to his desire for efficiency.
Part 3/7:
Artusi’s introduction to the recipe is peppered with charm as he praises his cook Marietta Sabatini—whose name is immortalized in the recipe—for her skill and earnestness. As a housekeeper turned assistant, Marietta was likely pressed for time, which may have influenced Artusi to simplify this festive culinary creation.
An Easy-Peasy Recipe
With the ingredients gathered—from sifted cake flour to sultanas, butter, and zest—Miller sets out to recreate the dish. Early in the preparation, he humorously acknowledges the misstep of using rum instead of water to plump the sultanas, which he notes would work just fine in this concoction. He instructs on mixing techniques, ensuring not to over-saturate the batter, a crucial tip for achieving a well-balanced panettone.
Part 4/7:
Following the mixing and preparation, he places the panettone in molds for baking. The assembly process appears straightforward, providing a stark contrast to the traditional method that often intimidates home bakers.
Storytime: Legends of Panettone
As the batter bakes, Miller regales viewers with the fanciful legends surrounding the origin of panettone. Two tales emerge during the Christmas Eve of the 1490s under Duke Ludovico Sforza's reign in Milan, both attributing the creation of the festive bread to resourceful cooks and noblemen. Although the origins of panettone are shrouded in myth, it emphasizes the enchanting allure that food traditions carry through generations.
Part 5/7:
Furthermore, Miller takes time to explore the etymology of the word "panettone," suggesting it might derive from the words panetto (meaning “loaf”) and the suffix -one to denote size, rather than any connection to characters named Tony.
The Verdict: A Clash of Textures
Post-baking, the panettone emerges with a golden dome, though Miller notes that many sultanas sank to the bottom of the cake—a common challenge for first-time bakers. Upon tasting, he remarks on its dryness but appreciates the flavor, concluding that while it is palatable, it does not compare to the more traditional Milanese panettone.
Part 6/7:
Strikingly, Miller observes that while the flavors of both varieties are quite similar, the texture of the quicker recipe is more bread-like than cake-like, attributing this difference to the fermentation process of traditional recipes.
Ultimately, he humorously confesses that despite the simplicity of Artusi’s method, one might as well purchase their panettone from a reputable baker rather than opt for this straightforward yet distinctively less satisfying variant.
A Sweet Conclusion
Part 7/7:
Max Miller wraps up the episode by emphasizing the beauty of culinary traditions and the joy that food can bring during the festive season. Even with the playful banter over which style of panettone reigns supreme, the heart of the matter is the spirit of appreciation for Christmas past and present. As the holiday spirit glimmers in the air, he bids farewell while wishing viewers a merry Christmas, reminding them to savor the season with a slice of panettone—be it homemade or store-bought.
In conclusion, whether one embraces the age-old traditional recipes or elects for simpler modern alternatives, the holiday season always beckons with warmth, sweetness, and the joy of shared feasting.