The Allure of Bread: A Culinary Journey into the Medieval Era
Bread has long been a staple of human diets, cherished for both its sustenance and its comforting qualities. While the simplicity of bread belies its importance in the world of culinary history, it often finds itself overshadowed by grander themes in historical manuscripts, especially those from the Medieval period. This absence of emphasis on bread in medieval texts can be attributed to cultural norms, as most culinary manuscripts were crafted by cooks for professional kitchens rather than by bakers. However, nestled within the Harleian Manuscript 279 lies a cherished 15th-century recipe that offers a glimpse into the medieval understanding of bread-making—specifically a concoction known as "Brede and Rastons."
The primary focus of this journey is to tease out the complexities of a historical recipe that invites a tantalizing question: Is a raston bread or pastry? The distinction is significant as it has prompted debates and even familial discord over the ages. While the discussion lingers, the recipe itself remains firmly rooted in the 15th century, providing basic guidelines that have the modern cook scratching their head.
The original Middle English text, though vibrating with history, may leave many flummoxed. Here’s a modern translation of the recipe highlights:
"Take fair flour, the white of an egg and a little yolk. Then take warm barm and mix these until the dough is crumbly. Add sugar and let it rest. Place in an oven, cut the top crust into a crown, add clarified butter to the crumbs, and return to the oven before serving."
In its essence, the recipe provides crucial guidance even if it lacks precise measurements or baking times, challenging modern culinary sensibilities that crave rigid parameters.
In creating rastons, the choice of flour is foundational. For this recipe, 450 grams of "fayre flour" is recommended. However, it’s essential to understand that fayre flour differs significantly from today’s commercial all-purpose flour. It is finely ground wheat flour, closely resembling modern all-purpose flour yet still distinctly different. In an attempt to maintain historical accuracy, a mix of half all-purpose flour and half stone-ground whole wheat flour is suggested. Cooking during quarantine may further influence ingredient selection, so using whatever is available is encouraged.
The recipe calls for two egg whites and a single yolk, with an optional second yolk for added sheen before baking. Next, warm barm is essential. In contemporary settings, this usually means a combination of warm ale and yeast, as beer’s byproduct can be challenging to acquire. The merging of dried yeast with warm ale is a practical workaround that facilitates the recipe’s rise.
A Touch of Sugar and Butter
To enhance sweetness, the recipe calls for undefined amounts of sugar, resolved here with approximately two tablespoons of brown sugar. Butter, specifically one stick or 113 grams, guarantees flavor richness, but traditional recipes often omit salt. Despite that, including a teaspoon of salt is recommended for flavor balance since it's a common component in bread.
After prepping the ingredients, mixing them involves creating a dough that is both crumbly and resilient. The original recipe hints at a dichotomy: a dough that is short like pastry and requires gluten development like bread. This duality introduces an intriguing challenge for the home cook. The mixture forms a dough that must be kneaded either by hand or machine until smooth, followed by a rising period.
As the dough rises, it provides a moment to reflect on the significance of fayre flour in medieval society. Throughout the Middle Ages, various grains were utilized for making bread, including oat, barley, and rye. However, wheat flour held a special status, often reserved for the upper class. Poet William of Waddington’s writings illustrate that wheat was considered the finest grain, referred to as "the loveliest corn men eat."
Flour milling was not merely a selling point but a craftsmanship that came with challenges. Millers were often viewed with suspicion, and flour’s production was fraught with undertones of danger and societal complexities.
In undertaking the preparation of Brede and Rastons, modern cooks confront not only historical culinary practices but also the timeless debate between bread and pastry. With this 15th-century recipe as their guide, cooks today engage in an act that transcends mere nourishment—each loaf is a gateway to understanding the past, igniting conversations about culinary science, tradition, and the very nature of what constitutes bread.
As you embark on this baking journey, you may find yourself pondering the nature of your creation: a luscious pastry or hearty bread? Regardless, the act of baking connects you through the ages to those who broke bread centuries ago—and perhaps, in the process, you may discover a newfound love for this age-old staple.
Part 1/8:
The Allure of Bread: A Culinary Journey into the Medieval Era
Bread has long been a staple of human diets, cherished for both its sustenance and its comforting qualities. While the simplicity of bread belies its importance in the world of culinary history, it often finds itself overshadowed by grander themes in historical manuscripts, especially those from the Medieval period. This absence of emphasis on bread in medieval texts can be attributed to cultural norms, as most culinary manuscripts were crafted by cooks for professional kitchens rather than by bakers. However, nestled within the Harleian Manuscript 279 lies a cherished 15th-century recipe that offers a glimpse into the medieval understanding of bread-making—specifically a concoction known as "Brede and Rastons."
Part 2/8:
Unpacking the Recipe: Brede and Rastons
The primary focus of this journey is to tease out the complexities of a historical recipe that invites a tantalizing question: Is a raston bread or pastry? The distinction is significant as it has prompted debates and even familial discord over the ages. While the discussion lingers, the recipe itself remains firmly rooted in the 15th century, providing basic guidelines that have the modern cook scratching their head.
The original Middle English text, though vibrating with history, may leave many flummoxed. Here’s a modern translation of the recipe highlights:
Part 3/8:
"Take fair flour, the white of an egg and a little yolk. Then take warm barm and mix these until the dough is crumbly. Add sugar and let it rest. Place in an oven, cut the top crust into a crown, add clarified butter to the crumbs, and return to the oven before serving."
In its essence, the recipe provides crucial guidance even if it lacks precise measurements or baking times, challenging modern culinary sensibilities that crave rigid parameters.
Ingredients for Success
Flour: The Foundation
Part 4/8:
In creating rastons, the choice of flour is foundational. For this recipe, 450 grams of "fayre flour" is recommended. However, it’s essential to understand that fayre flour differs significantly from today’s commercial all-purpose flour. It is finely ground wheat flour, closely resembling modern all-purpose flour yet still distinctly different. In an attempt to maintain historical accuracy, a mix of half all-purpose flour and half stone-ground whole wheat flour is suggested. Cooking during quarantine may further influence ingredient selection, so using whatever is available is encouraged.
Eggs and Barm: The Binding Elements
Part 5/8:
The recipe calls for two egg whites and a single yolk, with an optional second yolk for added sheen before baking. Next, warm barm is essential. In contemporary settings, this usually means a combination of warm ale and yeast, as beer’s byproduct can be challenging to acquire. The merging of dried yeast with warm ale is a practical workaround that facilitates the recipe’s rise.
A Touch of Sugar and Butter
To enhance sweetness, the recipe calls for undefined amounts of sugar, resolved here with approximately two tablespoons of brown sugar. Butter, specifically one stick or 113 grams, guarantees flavor richness, but traditional recipes often omit salt. Despite that, including a teaspoon of salt is recommended for flavor balance since it's a common component in bread.
Part 6/8:
Mixing and Kneading: The Art of Creation
After prepping the ingredients, mixing them involves creating a dough that is both crumbly and resilient. The original recipe hints at a dichotomy: a dough that is short like pastry and requires gluten development like bread. This duality introduces an intriguing challenge for the home cook. The mixture forms a dough that must be kneaded either by hand or machine until smooth, followed by a rising period.
The History of Flour: A Deep Dive
Part 7/8:
As the dough rises, it provides a moment to reflect on the significance of fayre flour in medieval society. Throughout the Middle Ages, various grains were utilized for making bread, including oat, barley, and rye. However, wheat flour held a special status, often reserved for the upper class. Poet William of Waddington’s writings illustrate that wheat was considered the finest grain, referred to as "the loveliest corn men eat."
Flour milling was not merely a selling point but a craftsmanship that came with challenges. Millers were often viewed with suspicion, and flour’s production was fraught with undertones of danger and societal complexities.
Conclusion: The Quest for Identity
Part 8/8:
In undertaking the preparation of Brede and Rastons, modern cooks confront not only historical culinary practices but also the timeless debate between bread and pastry. With this 15th-century recipe as their guide, cooks today engage in an act that transcends mere nourishment—each loaf is a gateway to understanding the past, igniting conversations about culinary science, tradition, and the very nature of what constitutes bread.
As you embark on this baking journey, you may find yourself pondering the nature of your creation: a luscious pastry or hearty bread? Regardless, the act of baking connects you through the ages to those who broke bread centuries ago—and perhaps, in the process, you may discover a newfound love for this age-old staple.