Sitting alone atop this mountain
is an experience only achieved through strenuous physical and mental fitness. No amount of money can buy the uncompromising solitude and magnificent tranquility the Big Pine Lakes area offers. Later in this post you'll see a clip from near top of the ridge on the right in this photo, and hopefully have a better idea of what I mean.
My hike began at the Big Pine Lakes Glacier campground.
I spent a few days there acclimating to the altitude since I'm from Baltimore and spend most of my time near sea-level. The trail heads out of the campground and soon splits into the North Fork and South Fork of Big Pine.
I had a wildnerness camping permit for the South Fork and planned to backpack for a couple days and attempt to summit Middle Palisade, but the snowmelt had made a streamcrossing early into the trail completely impassable. So I ditched the backpack and headed up the North Fork with just a water-filter, ice axe, helmet, and some dried fruit and meat with the intention of making it as far as I possibly could up Temple Crag and back to the campsite by sundown. I had no idea how far I'd make it, I hadn't even studied this route at all... In fact, I didn't even have a map of this trail.
The first few miles of the trail were hot and exposed. Shade was almost nonexistent, and my massive Nalgene bottle was nearly empty already.
Eventually, the trail found its way back into the trees, where cool shade and an icy stream of refreshing snowmelt rejuvenated me. I took a few minutes to refill my water bottle using a pump filter, and was thoroughly appreciating the chance to catch my breath when I noticed the damn mosquitos.
I saw many warnings about mosquitos in this area and had come prepared with spray and long sleeves, but Dear God! 20-30 or more were biting me at once. Just as soon as I'd rub my arm and smear 10 of the bloody suckers all over, my other arm would be covered again. So I hustled. My legs and lungs burned so bad from practically running uphill for the next couple hours, but I wasn't about to get eaten alive. Not by skeeters, anyway.
Crossing into John Muir Wilderness
The trail continued to wind its way switchback after switchback after switchback after switchback right up the side of this behemoth of a mountain. It showed no mercy. Just uphill, followed by steep uphill, followed by mosquitos, with climbing and snow crossings ahead.
So why was I there alone, walking nine miles up a mosquito infested mountain so far away from home? Because I love mountains, and I love adventure. The fact I was solo was merely a coincidence, because none of my camping buddies happened to be available when I had vacation from work. Honestly, it ended up making the experience with nature that much more intimate, so I can't complain.
The next section of trail followed a beautiful stream, so water was plentiful and the cool air was perfect for hauling ass, so that's what I did.
Soon, I came around a corner and Temple Crag was in view! Wow, even from a few miles away it's obvious how spectacular of a rock formation this famous climbing destination really is.
My adventure continued, with the terrain getting progressively steeper and rockier. Somewhere around 5 or 6 miles in, and I had only passed two other hikers. The solitude of the wilderness was starting to set in. Miles into the mountians, alone, no cell reception, not a building or manmade object in sight... Paradise!
Shortly after contemplating the gravity of my situation, I came over a ridge to catch my first up close view of Temple Crag and a few of the shockingly turquoise lakes. Wow!
I stopped here to eat lunch. By now I was starving, and decided to break out the beef jerky and dried mangos. They tasted the best they ever have, and I keenly scanned the perimeter continuously for bears. I was less afraid of getting mauled than I was of loosing the only food I had this far into the woods! Sunuvabitch woulda had to kill me! But the coast was clear, so I toasted some of that good ol' California outdoor and hit the trail.
Passed this awesome tree.
Eventually I reached the turnoff for Glacier Trail. The North Fork of Big Pine trail continues past more lakes, but I'm going up, so I turn here. Honestly I just photographed the sign in case I didn't remember from which way I'd come on the way back.
Shortly after turning on to the Glacier Trail, I reached a stream crossing. The water was high, as there had been a ton of snow, so the planks were all covered in algae and extremely slippery. I took my time, and luckily made it across with dry feet.
The trail continued up. Up, up, and away! I was starting to encounter more and more snow. I didn't mind, because although it made the going a bit more tricky, the air was cool and the mosquitos were mostly gone.
More uphill and more snow. Eventually, I reach this beautiful valley and a more challenging stream crossing. This one requires coordinated rock jumping. You could take off your shoes and wade through, but the water is cold af.
After crossing that stream, the climbing begins. It's not rope climbing, but you need your hands and you definitely don't want to fall. Route finding is becoming increasingly difficult, because on rock there isn't a worn path from those before as there was in the dirt. I keep climbing in what I hope is the right direction, and just as soon as I convince myself I have gotten off route, I came across this majestic cairn. Thanks, whomever built this!
Now the air is getting thin. The wind is cold, and there is little place to hide from it. The rough rocks have started to run my fingertips raw, and the snow crossings are getting steeper and sketchier. But the view is getting all the more beautiful, and my excitement level is rising. I finally need the snow axe I carried all the way up here, so I stopped and take a picture of it halfway across a crossing.
Good gracious that view of the lakes is paralyzing
By now I'm starting to hear thunder and see clouds roll in, so I know I'll need to turn around soon. Not knowing if I'll ever get a chance to return to this area, I press on a bit more, but soon realize I have to repeat the 9 miles I've already walked to get back to camp. That's enough motivation to take one last clip and head back down. Here is Temple Crag and Big Pine Lakes from somewhere on the ridge near Palisade Glacier:
I sincerely hope you have enjoyed these images from Inyo National Forest and John Muir Wilderness. If you appreciate the lengths I went through to get these photos, and share them here with you, please consider upvoting or resteeming my post.
Thanks, I hope my adventure has inspired you to pursue adventures of your own!
This is great! What a trail!
I'm from Maine and I thoroughly enjoy hiking, though I may not be as adventurous as you... I plan on posting many pictures this summer from upcoming hikes around New England. I love seeing nature from other areas, and your pics are top notch. Followed to see more in the future =)
Thanks for stopping by!
Hiking anywhere is better than not hiking. Getting out there is what its all about! Cheers!
I'm hiking the John Muir Trail later this summer! Can't wait, especially after seeing these pics.
18 miles in a day with snow on the ground... not bad.
Enjoy!
That is an incredible opportunity, I hope you make the best of it! The Sierras are unbelievably beautiful! Stay safe out there, and thanks for checking out my post!
I almost collapsed in my first experience mountaineering. It takes an enormous amount of mental fortitude to withstand the exhaustion. I can't help but say a big bravo to you @maxstacks
Indeed
Body and mind were very tired, but the scenery and fresh wild kept me going!
Thanks for looking!
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