If you are a climber leaving in a big city like I am and you want to go climbing on the real deal, you probably want to start with a convenient spot. Meaning that you want to stay in a fairly comfortable place and not bother too much with food. You also want a lot of beautiful crags, accessible within walking distance. And all of this would be much more enjoyable with other climbers you could share stories with and make new friends.
Like Geyikbayiri in Turkey, El Chorro is that kind of place.
When to go
Avoid summer as it is gets pretty hot, but it should be fine from October to April. We were there in March and it was great when the sun was out. It can get cold at night so have a decent sleeping bag if you're not renting it from them.
Getting there
First we flew to Màlaga. We were so excited to get away from the craziness of Paris and spend some time in more relaxed place with clean air, birds chipping, a great view and people who share your passion.
You don’t need a car if you’re there for climbing only, but if you want one you can rent it in Màlaga and drive to El Chorro.
If on foot, first go to Màlaga train station with the A train to the city center (stop at Marìa Zambrano). It runs every 20 minutes and costs 1.80€ for a 10 minute ride. Then you can take the train from Màlaga to El Chorro. It leaves at 10:05 am or 4:48 pm and costs about 6€ for a 42 minute ride.
Where to say
We chose to stay at Olive Branch, a camping area with a few rooms and a great view. It's located next to a few sectors, and at least a 30 minute walk from the biggest sectors.
You can rent a tent with a mattress, pillow and even a sleeping bag, so you don't have to bring that heavy stuff on top of your climbing gear.
If you want you can cook in the community kitchen, but you can also get breakfast and dinner there. And it’s so worth it, especially after a big day climbing where you might not have the energy to cook and wash the dishes. The first night we enjoyed a tasty curry dish, and it was a big portion. They have veggie and vegan options.
We did buy some groceries for lunch and snacks that you can get in Àlora, the nearest town with a supermarket. It would take your about 2 hours by bus goes there and back.
And there is people! There is a common area which is great to meet people around the pool table or a card game. There is so much you can learn and share with people who are passionate about climbing.
There is another place that looked similar called La Finca La Campana, which is also nice from what we've heard.
The climbing
There is a topo you can read at Olive Branch, and you can find more up to date info at http://struthadventures.com/find-best-rock-climbing-routes-el-chorro/.
There are tons of routes in this great limestone, some are 40 meter high.
It feels so good to be climbing outside as opposed to indoor gyms. You get scared at first, you don’t know where to put your hands and feet or sometimes where to go. But it is so much more rewarding.
What’s next?
We are going to do a few multi pitch routes and discover this huge wall called Frontales. It’s the main wall you can see when you get to El Chorro.
If you want to know more about El Chorro or similar places like Geyikbayiri in Turkey, let me know in the comments!
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