It really is a beautiful city, my wife's uncle lives there and took us to buy live fish, then we rented a boat and set them free in the Ganges, and watched as the pyres burned upon the shore. Rumour is the richest man in Varanassi is the man who supplies wood for the funeral pyres.
Very Interesting story! I was there during the Monsoon so didn't get the chance to do the boat ride. the funeral pyres were so shocking to see.