I hope you feel better, Marly! The surf here is getting good finally, just uploaded another raw footage video here on DTUBE. I've been watching the surf reports for your area, and it dosnt look like you're missing out too much, good time to be sick (if there ever is such a thing). Sending you good vibes from Cali !
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You're pretty right! There have been heavy storms during amost three weeks now, which means that I haven't been in the water that long. It's frustrating! Now for Monday there seems to be a gap... I'm praying! Until then I'll need to get better. Thanks for your lovely wishes :-)