Great Story. I will look forward to more of the same.
Surfing has always been on my growing To Do Bucket List.
Have you read: "The Dawn Patrol" by Don Winslow.
Got me intrigued by the Surfer lifestyle.
Though, I do remember being shocked when I learned that some of the "Beach Boys" were terrified of the water.
But someday, I may just join that Party Wave Dawn Patrol.
Check out:
20 Meter Rogue Waves Are Real
http://www.bbc.com/earth/story/20170510-terrifying-20m-tall-rogue-waves-are-actually-real
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Hey @franks
Thank you for reading my true life surf experience. I look forward in releasing more of them with the Steemit community. I have NOT read "The Dawn Patrol" by Don Winslow but it is on my list now that you have brought it to my attention. Thanks!
Surfers lifestyle...
I can't say I am your average looking surfer, lol.
But I can say that it is a different lifestyle that more should experience to be closer to earth/nature. Funny about the "Beach Boys" fun fact that I didn't know either.
Any day, just hang out the beach or a surf contest, the vibe is friendly and if you up to it, give the surfboard a try...
I did check out that link about that rogue wave, WOW! That's above my pay grade! LITERALLY!!!
It however has inspired me to write my next Surfing Experience. Stay tuned!