While I have not done much in the way of surfing I know that I am afraid of the really big ones because of an event years ago where I must of dropped in on the wave at the wrong point and it faceplanted me into the sand and I felt my neck crunch on impact. I suppose it was really stupid for me to be bodysurfing shorebreak but that ended my day of bodysurfing that day. I am a bit traumatized by that and feel the fear any time i am in the ocean now. Have you ever been completely wrecked by a wave? I bet you have.
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Sounds like you were lucky to not be more seriously injured. Beach breaks are very scary when the break right on beach as your story suggests. Good to treat powerful waves with serious respect...:) I have had my share of beat downs and this trip as many as any other. Not sure if I'm brave or stupid - but either way I always seem to be nearly drowning!
yeah, it was scary an felt like I was stuck in a washing machine as I was rolled around on the sand. There is another friend of mine that actually did break his neck and it was only because his daughter saw him floating face down that he didn't drown. Thankfully he recovered but now he has to be very careful with his neck in everything that he does because of some sort of surgery involving space age titanium or something like that.