三顧茅廬的高家意麵 / Three Visits to Gao Jia Yi Mian



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高家意麵是一家位在台中火車站附近,有著七十年歷史的麵攤,翻開旅遊書,幾乎都會提到這家店,意麵是一種台灣本地的麵食,通常有著較為厚實、微彈的口感,有些還會稍微捲曲,並呈現微微的黃色,常配上各種配料如肉燥、豆芽、青菜等,通常是人們到麵攤用餐時,最便宜的麵食項目,也是最多人點的食物項目。

其實,我本來覺得賣意麵的店家那麼多,為何那麼多旅遊書都推薦這家?到底有何獨到之處?是不是又要排隊排很久,才能吃到?要不要試吃一次看看?某次,路過台中火車站時,不小小看到高家意麵的招牌,該天,已經太晚了,店家已經收攤了,我只有拍到收攤後的昏暗招牌,心中暗道,真是沒緣份啊!這是我和高家意麵的第一次親密接觸。

某天中午時間,我特意去高家意麵的位置瞧瞧,想說,這次總可以吃看看高家意麵了吧,結果,店家沒開,查看一下高家意麵的公休日是每週三,但是該天不是週三啊!不過,店家就是沒開,我也只能摸摸鼻子,找別家攤販用餐了,真奇怪!隔天早上起床後,我心裡想,要不要早上去碰碰運氣,順便吃早餐,於是梳洗過後,又往高家意麵出發。

大概早上九點多,咦!好像有營業,我看了一下,座位區疏疏落落地有了一些客人,真的有營業,而且不用排隊,有座位,可以內用,趕緊點了乾意麵及餛飩湯,店名既然叫高家意麵,一定要點份意麵吃看看,有何特別之處,半透著光的淡黃微捲麵條,搭上豆芽菜,和淋上鹹香的肉燥,很樸實無華的意麵,但是攪拌之後,越吃越彈牙,越拌越入味,餛飩湯內的餛飩皮薄而滑嫩,餛飩湯的色澤呈現淺咖啡色,倒和我印象中的色澤不太一樣,但是不影響口感,我感覺,麵攤整個走的是經濟實惠路線,可能是因為火車站附近做工人居多,像這樣餐點特別符合他們的需求,久而久之,名聲就傳開了,此外,我看隔壁桌的顧客點了燒賣,據說是老客人必點,但是我已經吃不下了,只能下次再試試看了。




Gao Jia Yi Mian is a noodle stall with over seventy years of history located near Taichung Train Station. You’ll see it mentioned in almost every travel book. Yi Mian is a traditional Taiwanese noodle, usually thick, a bit chewy, and sometimes slightly curly with a yellowish tint. It’s often served with toppings like minced meat, bean sprouts, and greens. Yi Mian is typically the most affordable item on the menu at noodle stalls and also the most popular choice.

Honestly, I used to wonder, with so many places selling Yi Mian, why do so many travel books recommend this one? What makes it so special? Is it going to be one of those places where you have to stand in a long line just to get a taste? Should I give it a try? One time, while passing by Taichung Train Station, I happened to spot the sign for Gao Jia Yi Mian. But it was already late, and the shop had closed for the day, leaving me with just a picture of the dimly lit sign after closing. I thought to myself, "I guess it just wasn't meant to be". That was my first encounter with Gao Jia Yi Mian.

Then, one day around lunchtime, I decided to check out the location again, hoping I’d finally get to try it. But once again, it was closed. I double-checked their closing day—Wednesday—but it wasn’t Wednesday that day! Still, the stall was shut, so I shrugged it off and went to find another place to eat. So strange! The next morning, I thought, "Why not try again for breakfast?" So after washing up, I set out for Gao Jia Yi Mian once more.

It was around nine in the morning. Finally, it was open! There were a few customers already seated, but luckily, no line, and there was space to sit inside. I quickly ordered the dry Yi Mian and a wonton soup. With a name like "Gao Jia Yi Mian," I just had to try their signature noodles and see what made them special. The noodles were pale yellow, a bit curly, and served simply with bean sprouts and savory minced meat sauce. It looked plain, but as I mixed and tasted, it became chewier with each bite, and the flavor seeped in more with each stir. The wonton soup had thin, soft wonton wrappers, and the broth was a light, coffee-like color, a bit different than what I expected, but still tasty.

The whole stall seems to have an affordable, no-frills style, which likely appeals to the working people around the train station. Over time, word probably just spread. I noticed the customer at the table next to me ordered some shaomai (steamed pork dumplings), which I heard is a must-try for regulars. But I was already full—guess I’ll have to save that for next time!


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