No I was never good enough for competition. I just enjoyed being on the ocean. It was the only thing that made sense and brought peace.
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No I was never good enough for competition. I just enjoyed being on the ocean. It was the only thing that made sense and brought peace.
I'm sure the love of surfing that you must have gotten from your Dad, must help you kind of feel a little closer to him now that he's gone?
Wish I wasn't such a scaredy cat when I was younger, I love watching the surfers catch some incredible waves.
Happy surfing River <3