48 Hours in Porto

in CCH5 months ago

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Hello. I want to share my second trip to the charming city of Porto. I'll guide you on how to spend two delightful, colorful and unforgettable days in this remarkable place.

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To start your day right, a hearty breakfast is a must. Following a recommendation from a guide, we visited a café known for its extraordinary breakfasts and brunches. They served the fluffiest, softest and most delicious ricotta desserts I've ever tasted. We loved it so much that every morning, we drove from our rented house outside the city to Porto's center just for this treat.

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Porto is also a city full of Portugal’s iconic ceramic tiles, azulejos. A friend took us to a museum dedicated to these tiles, introducing us to a fascinating world. Azulejos aren't just blue and white. Their diverse patterns, designs and colors are impressive. I also learned that wealthy families would have their portraits made on these tiles, a unique historical detail. However, it's sad to know that there's a black market for azulejos, where authentic old tiles are stolen and sold for high prices. It's a troubling issue for preserving heritage.

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Next we ventured into tasting Porto's famous wine. Although I already knew I wasn’t a fan, my friends persuaded me to give it a try. Evaluating wine involves smelling it, observing it and finally tasting it. Predictably I didn’t enjoy it.Port wine felt too strong for my taste. Fortunately, there’s always someone willing to finish your glass. Later I tried a local cherry liqueur, which surprised me with its sweet yet slightly intense flavor. It reminded me of Becherovka from my childhood, though less complex. While it wasn’t life-changing, experiencing Portugal’s local spirit was still special.

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We also visited a local spot where you can sample various Porto wines alongside traditional Portuguese dishes. One highlight was the bacalhau fritters, made with salted codfish, a staple in Portuguese cuisine and potatoes. These fritters were incredibly tasty and perfectly complemented the wine.

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Exploring Porto is a joy because of its rich traditions and fascinating details. For example, locals bring wax replicas of body parts to churches as offerings when praying for healing, a vivid reflection of Portugal’s deep and colorful folk beliefs.

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If it’s your first visit to Porto, walking across the Luís I Bridge and taking the funicular down to the riverside is a must. Since we had already done this, we opted for something different this time: a boat tour on the Douro River. Highly recommended.The tour offers a unique perspective of the city, with audio guides sharing historical insights while you soak in the stunning views.

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Be sure to visit the famous McDonald’s in Porto, often hailed as the most beautiful McDonald’s in Europe. It lives up to the title. Once a luxurious hotel, this establishment features stunning Art Deco architecture that creates a captivating ambiance. The stained glass windows depict scenes from Brazilian coffee plantations, including enslaved workers, a haunting yet historically significant reminder of the past. While some may find this unsettling, I believe it’s an opportunity to confront history and learn from it.

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Before leaving you must visit one of Porto's most iconic spots: the bookstore linked to Harry Potter’s creation. It all started in 1881 when brothers José and António Lello opened a publishing house and began selling books. Years later they decided to expand and, on January 13 1906 inaugurated their now-famous bookstore.

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The facade of the bookstore features two striking female figures representing art and science. Inside, you’ll be enchanted by the Art Nouveau interior, complete with magnificent stained glass ceilings bearing the motto: Decus in Labore (Honor in Work).

What’s the Harry Potter connection? In the early 1990s J.K. Rowling moved to Porto after seeing an ad in The Guardian for an English teaching position at a language school in Portugal. Between classes she worked on her first book, The Philosopher’s Stone. While some claim Rowling wrote parts of her book at this bookstore, others suggest she simply drew inspiration from it. Local legends abound, including tales of a broomstick shop inspiring Hogwarts Diagon Alley and the connection between Salazar, a Portuguese dictator and Salazar Slytherin. However, Rowling has recently denied any direct link to the bookstore, though intriguingly, she lived just a short walk away. Do you think these stories hold any truth or is Rowling playing coy?

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Porto is not just a city of art and history. It also has unique quirks, like separate churches for the rich and poor. The city’s old center even featured a VIP prison where inmates included writers and political prisoners, not common criminals. Remarkably prisoners could choose their cells based on their budget. One famous Portuguese writer was jailed here. He stayed in an upstairs cell while his lover (a married woman) was held on another floor. Their arrest, stemming from their affair and correspondence, inspired the writer to pen a celebrated Portuguese novel, Forbidden Love

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Our magical two-and-a-half days in Porto concluded with a stunning sunset over the ocean, followed by another delightful dinner. This was my second visit to Porto and I fell in love with the city all over again. I learned so many fascinating things and uncovered details I hadn’t known before. Porto is a destination I wholeheartedly recommend. While settling here might not be for me, its cozy atmosphere and incredible food make it a perfect escape.

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