Oh, thanks so much! I shared the poem on Facebook too and was suprised at how many people loved it!
I started surfing at 14, though I had a long break, and have been stand up paddle board surfing for ten years. Now i'm back on the longboard it's a learning curve again, but I just love being in the water. You have to practice a lot which can be hard when it's crowded or work gets in the way!
So it's a lifelong passion! That's awesome. I'm a big water lover myself!