Oh, this brings back memories. My wife and I visited Cape Cross way back in 2005 on a organised roundtrip through southern Africa. I can still remember the noise and smell you mention.
It's such a huge colony. A wonderful and unforgettable experience. The young seals are so adorable.
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It's a great place to visit. Especially when driving along the coast. It's easy to make a stop then.Luckily I was here at a time with lots of pups.They are so cute🙂