"The rush of adrenaline, focus, imagination and concentration that you give to each wave that you ride is unimaginable."
Tell me about it. Seriously, the word "surf" IS IN MY USERNAME!! So it makes it really obvious that I know and love to surf too... One time while I was surfing, I saw a little stingray with 2 little black fish next to it. While I was looking at it, I was afraid and happy at the same time. I was afraid that I would fall off the board and step on the stingray and hurt it.
I was happy because seeing a stingray is kinda rare and I just love the thought of being with nature. :)