The rise and fall of Thailand as a backpacking destination

in ASEAN HIVE COMMUNITY3 years ago

I first ended up in Thailand for the same reason that a lot of 20 something people do - because it is globally known for being a very easy and inexpensive backpacking place. I had very little information about it other than what I had been told by my friends who had gone down this path before me and while having a "gap year" isn't really a thing in the United States, I decided to kind of have one. This had a lot to do with me not really being all that interested in the job prospects that were offered to me after I graduated from college and also because I had saved up a bunch of money and figured... what the hell, why not.


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I'll go ahead and admit that i am not old enough to have been part of what I have been told was the "true" backpacking heyday of Thailand. Those times, so I am told, consisted of being able to stay as long as you wanted to without much difficulty. It incorporated doing visa runs to get another stamp in your passport but there wasn't really any limit to how many times you could do this. It was a pain, I'm sure, but from the older folks that I talk to they tell me that they would approach the border with confidence because they knew that they were going to be let back in and let back in they were, every single time.

It didn't seem to matter if they had 2 months or 2 years of Thailand stamps already existing in their passport, the borders just didn't seem to care.


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If you were in the south you went to Malaysia, if you were in the west you went to Myanmar, if you were in the north you went to Laos, and if you were in the east you went to Cambodia. Virtually nobody ever had any issues with this.

Fast-forward to when I first came here in the mid 2010's. At that point Thailand was already cracking down on backpackers endlessly staying in the country and I was advised to get a 2 month visa, which was extendable once in the country and then if I still wanted to stay longer, I could have a try at going to a neighboring country to apply for another one. This was already a rather scary situation because if the answer was "no" then you were simply trapped in that country with no ability to get back in. Thankfully, I was granted a visa because I did my research and found out which embassies were "easy" and went to one of those. I also paid an agent who told me that they had a guy on the inside. So I don't know if I was legitimately entitled to my visa or not, but I got one.

During those times it was pretty evident that Thailand was becoming less interested in budget travelers and was more interested in people that were going to come here, spend a crap-ton of money in 2 weeks, and then go home. I can understand this from a taxation point of view because your average backpacker probably spent less money in 4 months than these wealthy travelers did in 2 weeks. I never understood why they would want to eliminate the cheap-charlies though, because even though they weren't spending much, they were still spending.


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I noticed on my trip that hostels had adapted and instead of trying to cater to budget travelers that were there for months they were trying to capture the youthful "booze tourism" market which wasn't really a thing when I first started out. Most of these folks were well aware of the fact that they were not going to be allowed to stay in the country for more than 60 days and were partying it up all day, every day. This is not really my scene but I did participate in it a bit.

I guess I just don't like being hungover so much and these places seem to specialize in curing you of your hangover by getting you drunk again. The rooms are damn near free but they get a ton of money out of you via all-day drinking events. There was plenty of vomit involved in these things but hell, the people had fun so I'm not going to judge.

I'm sure this is a lot of fun for people, but as I approach 30, I think that this type of tourism results in you missing out on a lot of what Thailand, and other places have to offer because you don't remember any of it and just have a headache all the time. I once stayed in a hostel that wouldn't even allow anyone over the age of 30 to stay there at all.


By the time I moved here, the backpacking scene had changed dramatically, and as far as people that were just staying here for "as long as they felt like it".... well, that segment didn't really exist anymore and when I would travel around I started noticing what was previously considered the "backpackers part of town" didn't really exist anymore. These businesses had their customer-base stripped from them and I guess they just gave up because the only youthful travelers that remained seemed to be exclusively interested in party hostels.

This was all before Covid of course. Covid completely wiped out all segments of tourism here in Thailand and for most of the world as well. Now Thailand is playing around with who they are going to let in the country and I am very curious to see if they will consider returning to their decades' old plan of just letting anyone in and letting them stay for as long as they want.

As it stands now if you want to live in Thailand long-term you need a job and a work permit like me, or you can get an education visa for a few years after which point they don't give them to you anymore. I'm not really certain how that works but I do know a few of my friends that after studying Thai or some sort of martial arts for a few years were told that they can't have another one. The other segment is the retirement visa but you have to be 50 years old and be able to prove that you have a steady income to be eligible for that.

I suppose this is all moot for me though because I don't plan on staying here for much longer. I'm in the process of deciding at the moment if I want to renew my teaching contract another year or just finally head back to USA to find a real job. I guess you could say that I don't understand why Thailand would intentionally chase away the backpacking crowd when it was at one time considered one of the best backpacking destinations in the entire world.

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 3 years ago  

Thailand is one must go destination or at least being in our bucket list. I have been in thailand and i actually fall in love with the culture , food and historical value there. i ll be for sure to come again there again if i got a chance.

I still miss some part of Thailand that i didnt visit especially the beach . I was going up from bangkok to chiang mai then to chiang rai during my travel there.

 3 years ago  

The beaches are certainly nice. I haven't been everywhere in the world but I think some of the beaches in the south-west are some of the most beautiful and unique in the world.

i hope you can make it there one day and if you can, try to get here before it becomes overrun again. I don't see that happening for quite some time though.

 3 years ago  

I try to hit the beach in my visit. I wanna experience party at the beach Thailand style :)

Smart move paying an agent as that is one way of making sure the outcome is positive in your favor. Big decision on what to do next for you and whatever it is outside of Thailand it will be a big change for sure. Going back to a "normal" life may be a struggle as there is not much fun involved with that.

 3 years ago  

Well said. And it will be interesting to see which way tourism goes. The last time I was there, pre- covid, the Chinese and Russians were the flavour of the day in the phuket region. Once we were out of Phuket and in less commercialised areas there were alot of young Europeans around. Thailand has always been my sth east Asian country of choice but Indonesia is where we are heading in a yacht. It's cheaper and closer to Australia for us.

 3 years ago  

based on proximity, Indonesia would be a better choice in my mind. That's pretty awesome that you are going to do that!

It's kind of strange what you describe about the Russians in Phuket. Years ago when I was there it seemed like almost every business had Russian language on their business but now that is all but completely disappeared.

 3 years ago  

We intend to sail to Thailand after Indonesia, but I think indo will keep us busy for a year or more. That's very interesting that Russian is not so prevalent now in Phuket. I wonder why, aside from covid 19 of course.

 3 years ago  

I was a backpacker in Thailand in 1992 - it's true what you say, those were the good ol days and you could have as many entry stamps as you wanted. Nowadays I'm outa touch completely with all those visa issues, I have a business visa and work permit and renew it every year. Part of me thinks though that Thailand will always have backpackers because it's still a wonderful place to visit!@

 3 years ago  

wow, 1992. You certainly are a veteran. I know about 30 people or so and I think that exceeds the time that all of them have been here. You must have saw what I am describing with your own eyes.

I looked at business visas at one point, including bogus ones, but the cost on them was going to be so high that this idea quickly fell out of favor with me.

I hope Thailand does always remain a backpacking place because you are correct, it is just an awesome place for that sort of travel!

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 3 years ago  

This is an intense post, got me pondering. If you did get a "real job" back in the USA, do you have a degree or work experience that would likely land you the best salary in a certain area of work? Just curious. I left the American job market in my mid 20s without any uni degree and a work history of manual labor, so I don't even know what I could back in the USA, wouldn't even know where to start.

Have you considered life in another SE Asian country? I don't know much about other countries at the moment, but Cambodia is still fairly easy to stay here long term. Obviously Cambodia is also not everyone's cup of tea, even many Cambodians don't like it here, but I totally understand the reasons for leaving.

 3 years ago  

I have a degree but almost not work experience. I don't relish the idea of entry-level positions and this is what inspired me to take a year off (which turned into more than 3 years because of Covid.)

I think that at least for now if I do leave Thailand, and I likely will pretty soon, that I will go have a try at corporate America, even though I think I threw up in my mouth a little bit just thinking about that prospect. I need to be realistic about things and from the experience I have meeting people that tried to live our their 20's and 30's in Thailand at least, almost all of them have great regrets for having made that choice. As shitty as it seems to me and I presume you as well, I think this becoming a slave to the grind is necessary for me to ever be able to have a nest egg of sorts should I decide to move back here one day.

I have not considered other countries other than this one and you have a good point. Perhaps before tucking tail and running back to US and A I should at least go and have a look at the other countries around here. Other than Laos, it seems to be quite easy to get into all the other ones. I'll likely skip Malaysia because the posts by @davidke20 , it seems like their Covid restrictions are still pretty intense and I'm kinda over all of that.

 3 years ago  

Nah. Don't worry about the covid no more. They even ditched the check in system now. But you do need to confirm if vaccine is required to avoid the heavy quarantine during entry, which they often change the standard requirement from time to time.

 3 years ago  
Thanks for posting in the ASEAN Hive Community.

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