I've surfed every single day this week, and with a good swell this weekend, I might even get in the water seven days in a row. I'd been praying all January that the surf would pick up when school went back so we could have some waves before we left for Europe and due to travel plans, probably won't get in the ocean for six weeks, which totally freaks me out.
It's been an awful summer for waves but this week it's been three foot and clean at one of my locals, with waves breaking all the way from the point to the the boat ramp if you get a bigger one. Best of all, it's uncrowded, and my husband has been out with me since he quit work.
This is him below from a trip to NSW where we got some tiny waves. I include this picture as he's surfing my Dad's old Blue Planet board, which we are currently fighting over. That is, I beg to swap for a few waves and sometimes steal it and run to the water before he is even in his wetty.
I HATED this board when I first rode it. I learnt on an 8'1 and this is 8'8, so it felt cumbersome to me. But now, after riding for so many years, I've realized I can pretty much ride any board I jump on, and figure it out super fast. I can also spin it around fast as well just by standing well back on the tail - something which is hard to do when you're learning and now it's second nature. It's only 2 liters more volume and the same width as my SMIK, but it's easy to get waves in smaller surf, and to be honest, this baby is easy to turn - cutback, float etc - from either the rail or tail, when I expected it to be like a log. So I'm seriously loving this beat up old baby!
Made in Hawaii, Blue Planets boards are fairly well known. Sadly they've stopped making this one - the image below is as close as I can get. Currently in the bath easing my aching muscles, I'm hardly going out to the van to get a photo!
I've been thinking alot of how much boards cost both for the wallet and the environment, so we are stoked we are giving this one a bit more life. It does make me want to save up for an 8"8 like Dad suggested when I stubbornly wouldn't go above an 8"3 with the SMIK. Still, the SMIK is awesome for bigger and faster waves so I wouldn't get rid of it in a hurry!!
Plus, I need a new longboard as well. It's kinda been killing me not to switch to a longboard after a SUP as I've been really hankering to ride it. At 53, I feel like my wave fitness isn't going to get better than it is right now, so I feel a sense of urgency to suck the marrow, or the fibreglass and carbon fiber and epoxy, out of this sport whilst I still can.
With Love,
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Love the surfing content and I can't survive if I'm out of the water more than two weeks. Good luck with the 6 week hiatus. Maybe grab a board and hit the surf in Europe. France has some great beach breaks and I hear Nazare is pumping sometimes :)
Yeah we chucked a SUP and a longboard in the Landie that's being shipped out there and I'm taking my Smik. As soon as we get it kosher we will head down to surf Maroc and Portugal. If I surfed Nazare I would defo make the news.
I might try some cold water swimming and heaps yoga to stay fit so when I see the ocean I can chuck me wetty on like wonder woman and get out there.
Do you blog about surfing at all? Please tag me if you do!
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Right on and awesome surfing content!
Thanks mate!
Ride those waves!
That's the plan. Can't always, though it's the best way i can think of to spend my time!
I love watching people surf. I envy you guys. Careful, don't tell me "you just have to get off your butt and go". In fact, I have a phobia of that:
Ok it doesn't exist (that's from Jurassic World). But I can't get the image out of my head.
So I find it admirable when people don't have this fear. What's more, at 53, I think you're in great shape. Okay, it's not going to get any better, but it's already legendary!
How did you learn to surf?
When I was a kid, we were always by the ocean as Dad surfed. So he would push me onto little waves and scream PADDLE PADDLE PADDLE. Then by 14 or so it was a teenage escape with my bestie. At 22 I had pretty much stopped due to travelling, life etc, moving away. Had a kid. Moved to the UK. Came back at 33 and got back in the water on a longboard. Someone starting shaping SUPS on the coast and we had a go and I was hooked. I should write a post about it
Wow yes I would love to read the article about it! I love feedback, it's really what inspires me.
I am amazed! I have always found surfing interesting and love watching talented people who can do it. Glad to see you enjoying the ocean before your big trip.
I'm loving it soooo much!!!
Hi other ocean lover! Lucky that you learned to surf when you were young. Since a few years I learned about that feeling while floating in the ocean and waiting to catch that wave. I never tried surfing (some balance issues in my body). I am a body boarder. Still a beginner, because in the Netherlands the waves are a bit too small. The board, fins and wetsuit are always with me in the van. And if I am not in the ocean, I just sit down and watch surfing. The big waves in Nazare are my favorite.
Body boarding is awesome too! I always say that if I couldn't surf a board, or even if I got older, I definitely would get fins and a body board, but that'd be a huge learning curve for me too