sup surfers
I tried to surf this weekend.
surfing is not easy. there are many things about it that are tricky. you have to first paddle out on your stomach.
then you need to go over the waves to get behind them.
then you gotta try to catch up with the wave and hop on the board in order to surf the wave.
the waves are scary too. super heavy walls of water that come right at you and dont stop.
its not easy. and it hurts. when you get rocked by a wave it feels like you are inside a washing machine, tumbling around under water without a notion of which direction is up or down. its only when your body hits the sand that you know which direction to go to get air.
and then when you do get to the surface to get a breath, another wave will hit you . no mercy.
ill probably just stick to skating
this is awesome that you were able to post this here and monetize your first time ever surfing lol love the post and definitely wish I could have been there to try it myself !PIZZA !WEED !BEER !LUV
Haha it takes a while to learn. Relax a bit. Watch some YouTube about getting through waves. If you skate you have balance - and understand how boards move. If you can, persevere. If you think skating is a buzz, well, surfing 🌊 is just as fun.
good advice. i didnt do any research on the techniques to getting up. the waves are kinda scary though. i will give it another go some day. thanks for the reply
That is by far the best attempt; for a new surfer; that i have seen; if you paddled with your arms harder with that wave earlier you probably could have caught it! Crazy that you got rocked enough to feel the "washing machine" effect!
ah ok yeah i really wasnt trying hard to paddle. i thought there had to be an easier way, but it makes sense that theres not, like pushing a skateboard. yeah man the washing machine effect is disturbing, but not the end of the world... i was kinda worried about the surfboard impaling me during that the most
That board is dope; cannot tell from the photos; but how many fins? Also, no wet suit is gnarly!
the water wasnt freezing but the wet suit would have protected me from getting scratched by the sand embedded in the wax on top of the board. my chest got all abraisioned (abraised) sandpapered by that. maybe a tee shirt would work
So dope man; yeah; you were supposed to paddle with your arms more to catch up with the speed of the pocket of the wave; but man; solid; yeah; a paddle board is cool because you can paddle into that pocket without using your arms so much!
thats sick. thanks for the advice
$PIZZA slices delivered:
@ryosai(1/5) tipped @web-gnar
yo