Circa August 2021, projecting a roof style v8 problem at Bethwall Green

in Liketu3 years ago


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A still from video footage of me attempting a 7b/v8 bouldering problem at Bethwall Green climbing gym in London. Got it in the end but took so many attempts out of me.


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Could you tell us what 7b/v8 means?

Certainly, in climbing there are grading systems for the different types of styles of climbing (sport/lead, trad, bouldering). For the time being let's focus on bouldering; there are 2 well known grading systems: the French Font (Fontainbleau) and the v (Hueco) grading systems.

To give you an idea of scale, the hardest bouldering grade to date is v17 (Hueco/American) or 9a (Font), my max bouldering grade is 7b/7b+ Font or v8 in the Hueco system. But does that mean that I am just about half as good as someone who can climb v16/8c+? Not necessarily since the progression between grades do vary.

Also, note that I said 7b/7b+ and v8, you might notice that 2 font grades can translate into the same grade on the Hueco system. I prefer using the Font grading system for it's granularity over the Hueco system.

There is a lot of history behind the grading systems of climbing as well as some controversies in regards to how some famous climbs have been upgraded/downgraded in difficulty.

Here is some reference material from the first climber in the world to climb a proposed v17/9a+ climber with a chart of how the systems compare:

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source: https://nalle-hukkataival.blogspot.com/2010/03/bouldering-grades-everything-is-average.html