Hello friends. The Maldives has become accessible to everyone over the past decade now and one of the main reasons is the availability of accommodations on local islands. You can stay in guesthouses owned by locals, making your vacation significantly cheaper compared to staying at resort islands, up to five or even ten times more affordable. This winter, we decided to experience a stay on inhabited islands for our holiday. Here you won’t find luxury hotels or Michelin-starred restaurants, but instead, cozy guesthouses, friendly and warm-hearted locals, small cafés, pristine white beaches and an incredible underwater world. We visited about ten different islands and I can already tell you that budget-friendly Maldives really exists. Today, I want to introduce you to a new local island: Welcome to Kelaa Island. Being greeted by coconut trees was pure bliss.
The biggest advantage of our guesthouse was its proximity to the beach, especially to a bikini-friendly beach. A short trail led us past kayaks visible on the right-hand side and a little further along the path, we reached the beach. You could see how beautifully turquoise the ocean was here. This part of the beach is public, meaning locals can swim here and there’s no need to wear a bikini. Just a 100 meter walk away, though, begins a bikini-friendly stretch of beach that extends for about 2 kilometers, offering an ideal spot for swimming in your swimsuit. As I mentioned earlier, since the majority of the local population on these islands are Muslim, they prefer swimming in modest clothing. Tourists, as guests, are expected to respect local customs, so there’s a distinction between public beaches where people swim in conservative attire and designated bikini beaches.
The sun loungers in front of our guesthouse were ready for use. We practically had the place to ourselves. Kelaa is relatively large with a population of around 2000, though most of the locals live in the capital, Malé. On this island though, you’ll mostly find small businesses or other types of work. There was only one umbrella set up for us on the beach, though more could be added if needed. Diving into the stunning Maldivian sea was an unforgettable experience. The seabed slopes gently, creating a safe environment for children to swim close to shore. To reach deeper waters, you need to go a bit further out. About 30 meters offshore, the water level reaches chest height. The entire beach is sandy, which might come as good or bad news depending on your perspective.There are no corals here. To explore the underwater world, you need to join an excursion. While coral reefs do exist, they’re located on the other side of the island, requiring a boat or hydrofoil ride to access them.
One downside of this island is that if you want to swim or explore the marine life, you need to sign up for an additional excursion. However, the upside is that the beach is entirely sandy, ensuring zero encounters with sharp corals. That said I did spot a small reef shark near the shoreline. it looked like just another fish swimming by. Overall, if you're looking for solitude, especially early in the season when tourists haven't arrived yet, Kelaa is perfect. You'll feel like you have this beautiful ocean all to yourself.
I highly recommend bringing mosquito repellent whenever visiting the Maldives. Within minutes, we were completely bitten. It was the first time we experienced such intense mosquito activity during our travels to the Maldives, possibly due to seasonal changes. The only effective spray available locally is called Soffell, sold in every Maldivian market. Thankfully, our guesthouse provided some for us since the repellent we brought didn’t work.
For all our trips to the Maldives, we’ve been traveling with a company called Wild Maldives. Everything is meticulously organized, from transfers and accommodations starting at Male International Airport to managing logistics throughout the country. All you need to do is book your flight. They handle the rest.
Our guesthouse had 15 rooms and ours was Room 110. The room came equipped with everything necessary: a bed, desk, air conditioning and a small wardrobe. Hot water flowed in the bathroom, a major plus. Upon entering through the door there was a small terrace where you could leave your shoes and rinse off sand under an outdoor shower. There was also a cozy little sofa outside where you could relax. The room wasn’t overly furnished, but it had everything you’d need. The beds were quite firm, which may or may not suit your preference. I personally didn’t love them. However, the surrounding scenery was breathtaking. In the morning, you’d wake up to a garden filled with palm trees.
At the reception area there’s a signature wall where guests leave their names. Polish and Slovenian travelers seemed particularly prominent. You’re encouraged to add your name too. The reception itself is compact but well-organized. Moving forward, we arrived at the dining area where breakfast, lunch and dinner were served. There was also a billiards table, foosball and a chess set for those who enjoy games. Free bicycles were provided for all guests since the island is large and requires transportation for exploration. If you prefer motorbikes, you’ll need a valid license (category A), as police checks are common and penalties apply without proper documentation.
The meal plan here is referred to as Full Board, including breakfast and dinner or breakfast and lunch, depending on your preference. Alcoholic beverages aren’t available because this is a local island, but embracing a detox from alcohol isn’t necessarily a bad thing and helps keep costs down. Breakfast options included both traditional Maldivian and continental styles. Since Maldivian breakfasts tend to feature lots of sweets and onions, we opted for the continental option: eggs, toast, butter, jam, fresh fruit, juice and tea. Dinners were satisfying, featuring dishes like tuna pasta and chicken. For lunch, you can dine at small cafés run by locals.
Kelaa is a fairly large island, so we rented scooters to get around. A quick reminder: make sure you have an international driver’s license with category A endorsement, as police checks occur occasionally and fines await those without proper documentation.
The island boasts a football field where youngsters play regularly. It's picturesque, with stunning beaches that hint at becoming more touristy in the future. But for now, we felt like pioneers exploring uncharted territory. There's also a tennis court, a hospital on the right side and a fitness area on the left. Farmers cultivate fruits and vegetables across much of the island, which remains largely forested.
On the opposite side of the island, we encountered larger waves crashing against the shore. Sri Lanka lies beyond the horizon. If we had a boat, we joked about sailing straight there.
The island is rich in agriculture, with farmers growing various fruits and vegetables. Riding between farms on our scooter, we eventually reached mangrove forests. Kelaa hosts the largest mangrove forest in the Maldives and it’s absolutely enchanting. Locals claim the mud from the mangroves benefits the skin, though we skipped this particular experience.
Numerous small farms dot the island, producing cocoons, bananas, papayas and more. Greenhouses are also present, showcasing the Maldives’ impressive agricultural organization. Along the roads, people greet each other warmly, shop at markets and carry on with daily life. Note that asphalt roads are absent, so rain can create large puddles in certain areas.
We stopped at a café for lunch, stylishly decorated with decent coffee service. We ordered espresso with milk, it wasn’t exceptional but not bad either. For the main course, we tried fried rice with chicken, a popular dish in the Maldives. The total cost? $14 per person. If you’re planning a 10-day trip, spending $14 daily on meals would amount to $140. Additionally, a few supermarkets sell drinks and snacks.
We also embarked on a day trip to nearby coral reefs and visited a sandbank, a tiny strip of sand emerging from the sea. Our spacious dive boat, captained by Mario, offered a serene journey despite slightly variable weather conditions. Once the waters cleared, we enjoyed snorkeling for about 30 minutes. We saw countless fish, though no turtles or sharks appeared. The coral formations were magnificent. Later, we landed on a deserted island, setting up a small picnic area. Umbrellas were opened, grills were lit and fresh fish was cooked over flames, flavored with lemon juice. The aroma was intoxicating and the meal, grilled fish with rice was simple yet utterly delicious. Eating on such a remote island made the experience twice as memorable.
We explored many local islands during our stay. Transfers between nearby islands are quick, taking around 10–15 minutes. Visiting farther islands might require routing through Malé, which takes longer. When planning, consider these factors. Since diving and snorkeling are important to us, we prioritize islands offering easy access to water activities. Daily excursions aren’t always feasible due to extra costs.
This island is ideal for those seeking solitude amid nature. Whether you want to read a book, relax in the shade or soak up the sun, it’s perfect. While there aren’t many activities directly on Kelaa, neighboring islands are easily accessible. Families with children will appreciate the proximity of a stunning beach just steps away from their accommodation. Unlike resort islands, staying here means being welcomed as a guest by the local community. Kelaa is remote and largely untouched by tourism.We were the only visitors. Enjoying a private beach and ocean experience is entirely possible here.
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