Mineral fertilizers

[osbornclark09]

Mineral fertilizers, otherwise known as artificial fertilizers, are single-component or multi-component fertilizers that are not of plant or animal origin. There is a misconception that all mineral fertilizers are harmful and should be strictly avoided in permaculture. Of course, the vast majority are not allowed in organic farming, but some of the fertilizers, mainly based on natural ground rocks without chemical treatment, can be used in our gardens.

Selected mineral fertilizers with the greatest use in the garden are described below

CALCIUM

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Limestone increases the pH of the soil, improves the water capacity of the soil, has a positive effect on the yield of fruit and vegetables, its taste, and resistance to diseases and pests. When used on pastures, it increases the health of the animals. Use it as fertilizer only when there is a need, especially needed on too acidic soils

• do not use on soils rich in magnesium
• do not add to composts to neutralize the pH (this will result in serious losses in nitrogen)
• do not mix with manure
• Use only when the soil is too acidic (see table below), every 2-3 years, 3-4 weeks before planting/seed, or in autumn after a harvest. Mix the fertilizer with the soil to a depth of 20 cm.

1. Dolomite (dolomite limestone)
   contains 25-30% calcium oxide and 15-18% magnesium oxide
2. Limestone
   contains 39-53% calcium oxide
3. Marl
   contains 25-95% calcium oxide
4. Lime from coral algae
   Loosens the soil due to the increased activity of bacteria
   is used at a dose of 25-30 g / m2
   when compost with lime, use 5 kg per 1 m3
   to protect against fungal diseases, you can dissolve in water and spray the plants
5. Calcite
   a good source of calcium when the magnesium level in the soil is too high to use dolomitic lime
6. Crushed eggshells
   perfect especially for crops with cabbages
   Increase the absorption of other nutrients

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POTASSIUM
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Potatoes, beets, and legumes have a particularly high demand for potassium. Potassium deficiency is the second most common problem of soils, right after too acidic pH. It is characterized by slower plant growth, less abundant yields, grain size reduction, lack of grains on the tops of corn cobs, and greater sensitivity of plants to fungal diseases. Older leaves are yellowish, turn brown and wilt over time.

It is best to use it in the fall. In theory, it is recommended to introduce potassium fertilizers into the deeper layers of the soil (10-20 cm for most of the plants, 5-10 cm for cereals), because they move poorly in the soil and thus increase their bioavailability. However, according to the "no-dig" method which I will describe in future lessons, we should dig the fertilizer only in case of very serious deficits.

It should be remembered that the sources of potassium are not only mineral fertilizer but also manure and compost. The use of mineral fertilizers is therefore very rarely required.

• Potassium Sulfate
  contains 50% K2O and 18% S
  it is a chloride-free fertilizer;
  especially useful for growing potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, strawberries, and berries
  sulfates change the pH of the soil, making it more acidic
  Dissolve 40 g of potassium sulfide in 1l of water and spray for winter against fungal diseases and severe potassium deficiencies. Caution with sulfur-sensitive plants

• Kainite
  consists of 14% K2O, 5% MgO, 20% Na, 4% S;
  a rare rock used for the production of fertilizers, approved for use on organic farms. Use according to the manufacturer's instructions

• Carnallite
  consists of 8-10% K2O and 10% MgO.
  a rare rock used for the production of fertilizers, approved for use on organic farms. Use according to the manufacturer's recommendations

• Wood ash
  consists of 1% - 10% potassium
  use a maximum of 700g per 10m2, be careful not to "burn" the plants
  releases minerals after six months from application
  deters worms
  makes the soil more alkaline, so use with caution on soils with a pH above 6.5

• Powdered granite
  composed of 3% - 5% potassium
  released for 10 years
  use up to 4 kg per 10 m2.

• Potassium permanganate
  for the production of natural disinfectants and antifungal liquids: 3 g of potassium permanganate + 10 l of water, use undiluted

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PHOSPHORUS
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Use only in the case of severe phosphorus deficiencies in plants, when supplementation with other natural fertilizers (compost, manure, etc.) does not bring satisfactory results.

1. Phosphate rocks (phosphates); composed of 11.5% - 17.5% phosphorus
   use 2-7 kg per 10 m2. phosphorus is released very slowly, the fertilization treatment with phosphorus rocks will not have to be repeated for years.
2. Phosphate flour; composed of 30% P2O5 and 26% -53%, CaO contains a lot of essential micronutrients for plants. Recommended for fertilizing acidic and neutral soils to increase bioavailability from 30% (application directly to the soil) to 80-90%, add it to compost and manure, liquid manure, and slurry.

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MAGNESIUM + SULFUR

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Use only in the case of serious deficiencies of the mentioned microelements in plants, when supplementation with other natural fertilizers (compost, manure, etc.) does not bring satisfactory results. Magnesium is leached out of the soil fairly quickly, but we enrich the soil with it, with each natural fertilization, so mineral fertilizers in the vast majority of cases are unnecessary.

1. Kieserite; contains 27% MgO and 22% S.
   Particularly high requirements in terms of sulfur demand are shown by: mustard, legumes, corn, and some vegetables, such as garlic, onion, red beet, leek, cruciferous vegetables

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MICROELEMENTS AND OTHERS

1. Basalt flour; contains 40% SiO, 8% CaO, 8.3% MgO, 1.7% K2O and elements such as manganese, zinc, copper, molybdenum, boron, iron, selenium
   This fertilizer has a positive effect on the structure of both light and heavy soils, creating better living conditions for beneficial soil microorganisms.
   It is also used to treat seeds before sowing, improving their resistance to soil pathogenic microorganisms.
2. Grey soap (potassium soap)

Dissolve 150-300g of grey soap in 10l of hot water and use undiluted all year round against aphids 40g of grey soap and 125 ml of kerosene, mix well in 25l of hot water and use undiluted before setting the fruit against aphids, scales, and spider mites. Dissolve 100-300g of grey soap in a little hot water. Add to 10l of water with a tablespoon of salt, a tablespoon of calcium, ½ liter of denatured alcohol and use it against caterpillars in case of severe infection.

1. Water glass (Sodium silicate)

an aqueous solution of sodium or potassium silicate Due to the high alkalinity, all types of water glasses act on the skin, causing burns, avoid contamination of the eyes, swallowing, and inhalation. In case of unintentional release into the environment, the "contamination" zone is limited by covering it with sand and neutralizing it with a sulfuric acid solution. Used as a fungicide (fungicide): dissolve 20 ml in 1 l of water and spray trees and shrubs during the leafless period (autumn, winter) used as an ovicide (to destroy eggs, worms): dissolve 50 ml in 1l of water and use in early spring

1. Bentonite; 50% montmorillonite, 20% illite, 5-10% kaolinite
   binds water well, is good for sandy soils, increases their water-holding capacity, provides 70 different micronutrients
   when preparing the compost, use 3 kg per 1 m3
2. Alum
   Dissolve 40g of alum in 10 liters of boiling water and saturate the anti-snail sawdust with it use undiluted against caterpillars and aphids
3. Dairy
   milk/whey, diluted 1: 1 with spray water, against diseases of tomatoes on leaves and fruit
4. Aluminum sulfate
   sulfates change the pH of the soil to be more acidic
   Dissolve 200g of aluminum sulfate in 1l of water, mix in 9l of additional water before use and use against aphids and Greenhouse whitefly

Comments

[hivewatchers]

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[osbornclark09]

Hello. I'm truly sorry for this act but the owner of the main content said we could reuse the content as we wish and i didn't see it as plagiarism...... What do you think?

So sorry once again

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