Kalag-Kalag: Celebrating Life and Remembering the Dead the Cebuano Way

in Philippines2 years ago

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Today is the 1st of November and for Filipinos, this is the day when we remember and celebrate the lives of our dearly departed loved ones.

One of the things that I love about this season is the fact that almost all television shows have their own Halloween special. I like the stories of haunted places and monsters that lurk in the darkest corners of a space. Whenever it falls on a long weekend like this year, I always make it a point to watch a scary movie or two. This year I watched Feng Shui again. It reminded me why Kris Aquino is the queen of screams. It is a beautiful movie with just the right amount of gore and horror to make you want to stay far away from baguas for a bit of time.

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This is my favorite Halloween party look. Gone are the days when Cebuanos observed this event solemnly because parties and trick or treat is becoming a huge part of it now.

But aside from the scary costumes and terrifying stories, this is a significant time for Filipinos as it highlights the life of loved ones who passed on to the next life.

Kalag is the Bisaya term for spirit or soul so “kalag-kalag” refers to the occasion for the soul.

The observance of All Saints and All Souls Days is influenced by the 333 years of Spanish rule in the country. It is known as Dia de los Muertos in Spanish or Day of the Dead. Just like the Spanish also set up altars where we offer food and other things that our departed loved ones used to enjoy. However, there are some differences in the way we celebrate this occasion that makes it truly Filipino:

Cleaning and repainting the graveyards
Most of the cemeteries here in the Philippines are forgotten about during ordinary days but on the days leading to the kalag-kalag, the graveyards are also prepared for visitors. Weeds and trash are disposed of. And of course, to complete the look, the vaults and tombstones are repainted.

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Leaving food on the graveyards.
Aside from lighting candles and leaving fresh flowers, Cebuanos also leave food on the graves of their loved ones. Most of the time these are foods that they loved while they were still living. You shouldn’t be surprised if you find your Cebuano friends’ Facebook walls teeming with memes about getting out of cemeteries already too full because of the “smorgasbord” they just had inside.

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Here's an unconventional blue biko sold in Aguas cafe if you are feeling fancy.

Biko is the centre of the table.
Biko is a kakanin made of glutinous rice, coconut milk, and caramelized sugar. It is often served on Cebuano tables and altars because of the belief that the souls love sweets. Others also believe that it represents the sweet memories and closely-knit bond we had with those who passed on.

Palina
Don’t be surprised if you come out of Cebuano cemeteries smelling like burned leaves. The “palina” entails passing through burning leaves like an incense to mask off your scent and ward off the spirits that may be following you.

Pagpag
Another tradition of Filipinos is the “pagpag” or not going home directly after visiting the cemetery. It is believed that spirits will come with you and if you don’t want to invite their presence to your home, you must go somewhere else before coming home.

It is a family affair.

Kalag-kalag is an event everyone looks forward to each year because it is a time when family members gather and catch up – in the cemetery of all places!

It is not surprising why cemeteries at this time of the year look so alive because everyone convenes and spend quality time (even sleeping there!).

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Food offerings are customary in any Cebuano household during the kalag-kalag.

Pangalag
According to tradition, the souls will visit the homes of their families by 8:00 in the evening and grab a bite of the food prepared for them. After they have “eaten” the families gathered will now eat the food. Pangalag is a tradition where families and friends visit and share the food prepared.

Harang
Although this is already very rare, the harang is a tradition observed in some Visayan rural areas. Here, live chickens are killed with their blood being offered to the spirits. These will then be cooked and seasoned without ever tasting. A local elder will lead the prayer of offering. After serving these to the spirits the people will then share the food.

Cebuanos have a colourful way of celebrating All Souls Day, how is it celebrated in yours?

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Thanks for sharing some Filipino traditions of Kalag Kalag. I've never heard of it before, always nice to learn about other cultures. Thanks

You are very much welcome. Philippine culture is fun!

Pretty same with us here in Negros, we also call it kalag-kalag.
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Do you have a ritual like the harang, too?

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