In today's post, I want to talk about my trip to the city with the magical name, Alba Iulia. Alba Iulia is the second star of Transylvania and could even be called one of the best places in the entire country. It's also known as Romania's second capital. In 1918, this is where documents were signed that made Transylvania part of Romania, forming the basis of the country as we know it today.
First, we visited Alba Carolina Fortress, the main attraction in the city. There's a longstanding tradition in Europe: if there's a good hill, build a castle on it. Here, in the early 18th century, the entire Old City of Alba Iulia was demolished and this beautiful fortification was built in its place. This fortress structure contains all the main attractions of the city, allowing tourists to go directly to the castle gates. However, it's not just one gate, there are four gates. The third gate, leading to the viewing terrace and the Memorial Obelisk, is the most beautiful, in my opinion. But entering from the front might be more convenient, at least because there are many free parking spots here.
The many entrances around the fortress were not built in vain. Firstly, the massive circumference of the fortress walls is over 12 km, so walking around it every time wouldn't be practical. Secondly, the gates were placed between the arms of the seven-pointed star-shaped fortress. This type of castle design allows each entrance to be easily defended, which is why they weren't stingy in constructing the gates. The recognizable lines of the bastion have become a kind of symbol of the city, used everywhere from clubs to manhole covers. As we walk through the city, we often come across the beautiful stars.
The fortress has three defense systems. The largest inner moat is 27 meters wide and the moats between the fortress walls average 9 meters in width. They are designed to enhance protection, allowing small cannonballs and shells to bounce off and roll down the walls.
Seen from above, Alba Carolina is quite unusual, but I can't complain about a specific feature of Transylvania, the weather has a mystical quality, almost as if it's flirting with me throughout the tour. It changed five times within an hour. At one point, there was bright sunshine for about 10 minutes, then suddenly clouds descended upon the city and fog set in.
One of the main attractions in the city is St. Michael's Cathedral, a symbol of Alba Iulia and one of Romania's most important historical monuments. The cathedral is a tall brick structure built in a Gothic style, dating back to the 18th century. Inside, you can find many decorations, altar sculptures and beautiful stained glass windows.
The second and more grandiose temple is the Holy Trinity Orthodox Cathedral, also known as the Coronation Cathedral. This cathedral is designed in the shape of a Greek cross with various decorative adornments in a Byzantine style. The cathedral was specifically built at the beginning of the last century for the coronation of King Ferdinand and his wife, Mary. The Coronation Cathedral was constructed for King Ferdinand, considered the first monarch of unified Romania.
Before World War I, Romania was a kingdom, but it didn't include most of the Romanian principalities. Transylvania was occupied by the Austro-Hungarian Empire at the time and ethnic conflicts were constantly flaring up. However, after the empire's defeat in World War I, its influence significantly weakened and the decision to unite the greater Romanian kingdom was signed in Alba Iulia. The European Union donated 60 million euros for the restoration of the fortress, with an additional 10 million euros provided by local budgets. But even this wasn't enough to fulfill all the plans. The renovated fortress opened to tourists in 2015 and a monument was erected in 2018 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Great National Assembly.
If you parked at the western walls of Alba Carolina, your route would start with a visit to the Memorial Obelisk, erected in 2018 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Great National Assembly. The obelisk's shape has been criticized by some locals, but at its base is a large, beautiful fountain and a small park adorned with flower beds. After passing through this park, you can cross a large suspension bridge, giving you a sense of the size of the fortress and the width of the defensive moat. The moat no longer serves a defensive function; in the winter, it becomes an ice skating rink and a Christmas market is held there. The beautiful evening lighting of the fortress makes it a captivating attraction, especially during the Christmas season.
Passing through the beautiful gates and entering the fortress, you'll be greeted by bronze statues at the entrance. Similar bronze statues are scattered throughout Alba Carolina to add some vibrancy to the large open spaces within the fortress. Each statue captures a peculiar pose, as if you've stepped into a fairy-tale city and a wizard has waved his magic wand, freezing time and turning the city's inhabitants into bronze figures.
By the way, these statues have another unique feature, they were made at only 10% of the market price. The sculptor agreed to work for this low fee, despite criticism from colleagues. The fortress restoration project exceeded its budget, leaving almost no money for the planned statues. As a result, the sculptor agreed to work for just 10% of his fee and the city didn't interfere with the project. To create the statues, the sculptor used images of his family and friends as models.
Another notable feature in the fortress is an excerpt from the Great National Assembly's resolution engraved on a bell. However, the word Hungary was removed from the engraving, suggesting that some censorship might have been applied here.
In the square near the bell, you'll find the remains of an ancient city and statues of Roman soldiers. These statues are not placed here by accident, the Romans were the first to recognize the strategic importance of this location. The city's history dates back over 2,000 years. The Romans captured the area and it became known as Apulia. This name was given due to the white marble decorations within the fortress. There's much more to explore in the fortress, making it worth spending an entire day if you have the time.
However, I didn't have that luxury, so after a two-hour visit, it was time to start heading out of the fortress. I passed through three gates, one of which I've already mentioned. The gates are beautiful and atmospheric, adorned with many reliefs. Above the gate, you can enter a modest door leading to a small cell located in front of the main entrance.
In front of the fortress, an obelisk was erected in memory of the three leaders of Transylvania's largest peasant uprising. The leaders were executed during the rebellion. As a result of this rebellion, the Austrian authorities had to soften the conditions and abolish serfdom in the same year. At the foot of the obelisk is a lovely viewing terrace where a weary traveler can admire this magnificent city. For a thoroughly exhausted traveler, I'd recommend visiting Pub 13 nearby. This pub is hidden within the city's walls and is considered one of the most sophisticated spots in the city.
Hiya, @livinguktaiwan here, just swinging by to let you know that this post made it into our Honorable Mentions in Travel Digest #2190.
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