We visited Lisbon, just realised, ten years ago and vowed to return as we liked it a lot. We stayed in an Aparthotel in the middle of town but Belem was walkable from where we were. I think that was my favourite part of the city. Recognised a lot of the things you wrote about here.
Must go back. Especially as my stepson and partner have just been to Porto.
Sounds like a nice trip. It's a spot that is definitely worth a revisit.