Welcome to the ninth continuation of my notes from following the last journey of Jan Hus from Prague to Constance. Today we will look into the protected area of the Český les (Czech Forest). We will finally leave the Czech Republic and take our first steps in Germany/Bavaria.
Vítejte u již devátého pokračování zápisků z mého následování poslední cesty Jana Husa z Prahy do Kostnice. Dnes se podíváme do chráněné oblasti Český les, konečně opustíme Českou republiku a uděláme první kroky v Německu/Bavorsku.
The plan was to get up as early as possible because I was sleeping very close to the city and not far from the school on the edge of the forest. So I didn't want to be caught by some early morning joggers or students heading to school. For the first time, I came across the markings of the trail that was supposed to accompany me all the way to Nuremberg. It is interesting that the emblem of the Czech Lion was chosen as a tourist brand. This symbol has been used since the middle of the 13th century as the country symbol of the Czech lands and is currently also small symbol of the Czech Republic.
Plán byl vstát co nejdříve, protože jsem spal velmi blízko města a nedaleko školy na okraji lesa. Takže jsem nechtěl být přistižen nějakými ranními běžci, nebo studenty směřujícími do školy. Poprvé jsem narazil na značení stezky, která mě měla doprovázet až do Norimberka. Je zajímavé, že jako turistická značka byl zvolen znak Českého lva. Tento znak je používán již od poloviny 13. století jako znak označující české země a v současné době je také ve znaku České republiky.
Not far. I left the forest for a moment as I headed into the farmland where the fog was just melting. There are only a few villages in this area, because during the time of socialism this area was a forbidden zone and you were only allowed to go there after a very strict background check or as a soldier of the border guard.
Za nedlouho. Jsem na chvíli opustil les, když jsem zamířil do zemědělské krajiny, kde se akorát rozpouštěla mlha. V této oblasti je jen pouze pár vesnic, protože v době socialismu toto území byla zakázaná zóna a smělo se sem pouze po velmi přísné prověrce, nebo jako voják pohraniční stráže.
The closer I got to the border with Germany, the more wild and desolate the landscape became. Only avenues of trees in the meadows remind us that there used to be villages with hundreds of people. First the Germans and then the Czechs were displaced after the Second World War, because of the Iron Curtain.
Čím více jsem se blížil k hranici s Německem, tím byla krajina divočejší a opuštěnější. Jen aleje stromů v loukách připomínají, že zde dříve stávali vesnice se stovkami lidí. Než byli po druhé světové válce vysídleni Němci a poté i Češi, kvůli Železné oponě.
Today, there are only signs and bollards at the borders warning that there is a border. Thanks to the free movement of people in the EU, it is possible to cross the border anywhere, and everyone, both Czechs and Germans, make extensive use of it. For example, this day was a holiday in Bavaria, so Bavarians went to the Czech Republic for cigarettes at the gas station.
Dnes jsou na hranicích pouze cedule a patníky upozorňující, že je zde hranice. Díky volnému pohybu osob v EU je možné hranici překračovat kdekoliv a každý toho hojně využívá jak Češi tak Němci. Třeba tento den byl v Bavorsku svátek a tak si Bavoráci jezdili do Čech pro cigarety na benzínku.
Immediately after crossing the border, you can see the difference. For example, in the maintenance of meadows or forests. In Bohemia, everything is so wild, but in Bavaria, these places are more maintained, because the economic cycle has not been disturbed here.
Okamžitě po překročení hranice je poznat rozdíl například v údržbě luk, nebo lesů. V Čechách je vše takové divoké, ale v Bavorsku jsou tato místa více udržována, protože zde nebyl narušen hospodářský cyklus.
On my way along the border, I passed a stone lookout tower. I went through young forest and headed for the town of Bärnau.
Cestou podél hranice jsem prošel kolem kamenné rozhledny. Prošel mladým lesem a zamířil k městu Bärnau.
But before I reached the town. On the way I came across a Catholic church with a view of the town and the Stations of the Cross.
Ale než jsem došel do města. Cestou jsem potkal katolický kostel s výhledem na město a křížovou cestou.
I didn't stay very long in the town itself. Because it was a holiday that day and the only things that were open here were a couple of restaurants. But they were besieged by relaxing Bavarians. So I withdrew Euros from the ATM and continued on.
V samotném městě jsem se moc dlouho nezdržel. Protože byl svátek a jediné co zde fungovalo byla dvojice restaurací, ale ty byli obleženy relaxujícími Bavořany. Takže jsem vybral Eura z bankomatu a pokračoval dále.
After leaving the town, I immediately noticed that there are far fewer forests here than in the Czech Republic. Which I immediately evaluated as a complication during an overnight stay. So it required far more planning than I was used to.
Po opuštění města jsem si hned všiml, že je zde daleko menší množství lesů než v ČR. Což jsem ihned vyhodnotil jako komplikaci při přenocování. Tudíž bylo nutné daleko více plánovat, než jsem byl zvyklí.
Outside the village of Thanhausen I saw some strange cows in one of the pens in the distance. When I got closer, I found out that they were European Bison. An elderly man was standing by the fence and feeding the animals with apples. I greeted politely and the man immediately started talking. So I was forced to brush up on my forgotten German and explain to him what I was actually doing here. I was surprised that he knew who Jan Hus was. I took a few photos during the conversation. And after a while I said goodbye to the men and wished him a nice rest of the holiday.
Před vesnicí Thanhausen jsem v dálce uviděl divné krávy v jedné z ohrad. Když jsem se přiblížil, zjistil jsem, že se jedná o Zubry evropské. U plotu stál starší muž a krmil zvířata jablky. Slušně jsem pozdravil a okamžitě se mou dal muž do řeči. Byl jsem tedy nucen oprášit mojí zapomenutou němčinu a vysvětlit mu co zde vlastně konám. Byl jsem překvapen, že ví kdo Jan Hus byl. Při konverzaci jsem udělal pár fotek. A po chvilce se s pánem rozloučil a popřál mu krásný zbytek volného dne.
In the village of Hohenthan, I refilled the water at the spring on the edge of the village. I sat on a bench by the spring and looked at the landscape. And since it was quite warm, I decided to rinse my feet on the stairs, where the spring was flowing.
Ve vesnici Hohenthan jsem doplnil vodu v prameni na okraji vesnice. Poseděl na lavičce u pramene a koukal do krajiny. A protože bylo docela teplo rozhodl jsem si opláchnout nohy na schodech. Na které pramen vytékal.
I continued on to the town of Plößberg through forests and meadows. Sometimes I had to cross the main roads where mostly motorcyclists taking advantage of the day off. On the outskirts of the city, I came across a sign mapping the entire original Golden and Land Path from the time of Emperor Karl IV. And that's what I enjoy these long-distance trips, because you constantly come across new and new possibilities of where to go after the end of one trip. And you'll keep coming across new events and places. Like, for example, in Plößberg, there was some kind of celebration that day, which I preferred to avoid, because I know how it would end. I would get a taste of the local beer and end up in the city. This is how I headed to the place. Where the tourist shelter was marked on the map. Which in the end turned out to be rather flimsy huts local ecologs. And due to the threat of strong storms again, I headed to the nearest forest, where was also a spring as a bonus.
Pokračoval jsem dále k městečku Plößberg skrze lesy a louky. Občas jsem musel překonat hlavnější silnice, kde to žilo převážně motorkáři využívajících volného dne. Na okraji města jsem narazil na ceduli mapující celou původní Zlatou a Zemskou stezku z doby císaře Karla IV. A to mě na těchto dálkových cestách baví, protože neustále narážíte na nové a nové možnosti kam se vydat po skončení jedné cesty. A neustále budete narážet na nové události a místa. Jako například v Plößberg se ten den konala jakási slavnost, kterou jsem radši obešel, protože vím jak by to skončilo. Zachutnalo by mi místní pivo a skončil bych ve městě. Takhle jsem radši zamířil k místu kde byl v mapě značen turistický přístřešek. Což se nakonec ukázalo jako dost chatrné boudičky místních ekologů. A vzhledem k tomu, že opět hrozili silné bouřky zamířil jsem k nejbližšímu lesu, kde byl i pramen jako bonus.
| Kilometers walked | Meters Up | Meters Down |
|---|---|---|
| 283.3 Km | 5525 meters | 5188 meters |
Jan Hus Trail - Prague (CZ) / Day 1 - part 1
Jan Hus Trail - Prague (CZ) / Day 1 - part 2
Jan Hus Trail - Prague to Beroun (CZ) / Day 2
Jan Hus Trail - Beroun to Skryjská jezírka (CZ) / Day 3
Jan Hus Trail - Skryjská jezírka to Kralovice (CZ) / Day 4
Jan Hus Trail - Kralovice to Rabštejn nad Střelou (CZ) / Day 5
Jan Hus Trail - Rabštejn nad Střelou to Konstantinovy Lázně (CZ) / Day 6
Jan Hus Trail - Konstantinovy Lázně to Tachov (CZ) / Day 7
The sights were amazing and it was really colorful! I love that and congrats for this achievement! I am doing a similar trail through Hungary, but I just started recently, so I am not a professional at all! 😊
What kind of camera you used, because the pictures looks brilliant? 😇
The beginning is the most important thing, when I started walking these long distances years ago, I had no idea that I would start enjoying it all of a sudden and it would completely change my life. This trip was shot on Canon 7D Mark II with 17-40/4 and 70-200/4 lenses.
Thank you so much for your answer and I hope I can keep up doing it. 😁
That is why your pictures are so amazing that device is quite powerful! I will try to follow you more and learn from you! 😇
I've been to Czechia last year and totally loved it! Sadly I only focused on the urban points of interest for the tourists but I promised to myself that I will return one day and take the outdoors paths as well! I also have Germany on my list so this is perfect :)
In Germany, I recommend visiting smaller towns, because history is preserved here. Most of the big cities have been razed to the ground even though the monuments have mostly been repaired, but it doesn't have the right atmosphere. There will be some interesting tips in the next articles.
That's good to know. Definitely looking forward to finding out more! Thank you!
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The contrast between Czechia and Germany's border areas must be quite striking. Exploring those lesser-known paths looks like a rewarding adventure. Happy to know you and see all this daily. Keep it coming dear friend
Fantastic, multifaceted journey, I love it! And beautiful, juicy photos, I can almost smell the forest in the second picture :)
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