The Whale Trail is an epic adventure along the South Coast of South Africa. The 5-day hike takes you up mountains, down into valleys and river crossings towards the coastline with incredible sandstone cliffs, rocky shores and crystal blue rock pools.
I was lucky enough to get a last minute spot on this slack packing adventure.
You can read about the journey to De Hoop Nature Reserve, the host of the hike, and the escapades of our first day climbing to the highest elevation and on to Cupidoskraal here.
DAY 2 Cupidoskraal to Noetsie
The morning started early before the sun had burned through the light mist above us. We packed our crates and our day packs, had a quick breakfast of oats and tea, and gathered outside for our group photo of the day to commemorate this leg of the journey.
Then we were off up the hill. We passed a small dam and continued uphill. The views quickly opened up below us of the vast valley.
Phone signal was nonexistent at the huts so when we saw the big piles of rocks at the top of the hill, we knew that we could check in with our loved ones and catchup on messages. (A LOT OF MESSAGES!!!)
We pushed on along the ridge and up the next mountain on winding paths through the mist. We were grateful that it was cool because today was another 15.2 kilometre day of walking.
The floral band on the mountain showed off the most gorgeous array of flowers. Some are from the pea family, others are Erica’ sand yet others seemed to be from the yesterday, today and tomorrow family. And there were too many others to put in one blog. The reserve is rich with species of both flora and fauna.
We stopped for a snack before the big descent and enjoyed the view of what was to come.
We descended via a winding single track path down a steep section of the mountainside before the slope slowly levelled out to a wet marsh. The area had had a lot of much needed rain lately and the water table was high.
Got parts of the valley we had two options, take of your shoes and socks and walk through the unknown mud OR traverse the obstacle course that lay ahead.
The ladies in front erected a path of tree stumps for the rest of us to cross which was MOSTLY successful. Only one or two wet shoes.
The next obstacle in our path was a single skinny pine log which was not secured and rolled as we walked on it. Our trekking poles came in handy keeping us upright.
Our last obstacle was a 3 long bridge over the worst of the wetland which took us about 50 meters further along our path towards the coast and our hut at Noetsie beach ahead.
The change from sandstone to limestone meant that we were getting close to the coast and a decent lunch break was in order. We had about 3 kilometres left for this day’s hiking and we had made good time.
My buddy, Val, and I didn’t feel like stopping. So we headed straight on along the uneven limestone path. We cut through low bush as the sun got hot. Unfortunately we had neglected to load on the sunscreen because of the mist in the morning so we quickly layered up (although it was already too late) and kept moving over the final hill.
I’m pretty sure the ladies 2 kilometres back could hear us when we spotted the ocean and our Noetsie hut across the beach with a big squeal and a cheer!!!!
Only a few hundred meters further and the rocky shore lay between us and the hut.
We made quick work of the rocks and were the first to get to the hut ahead of the group. Each hut has its key in a key box near the door hidden away from the baboons.
Noetsie hut is perfectly positioned with exquisite views of the ocean, the passing dolphin pods and the breaking waves.
So we grabbed our cozzies and headed for the rock pools just below the hut for a refreshing splash.
As the sun dropped lower in the sky, Val made quick work of dinner and served up a brilliant Chilli con Carne with brown rice and sambals. And then we all grabbed a drink while we watched the sun set down the coast.
I barely slept that night. The crashing waves melted into the sound of a rushing storm in my semi conscious state and I woke up anxious and then realised what was happening. It’s only the waves.
DAY 3 Noetsie to Hamerkop
We got up early and slowly packed up for the third time before heading our on our path towards Hamerkop hut.
But first we wanted to take a look at the bushman caves below the cliff. It was only a couple hundred meters out of our way and what a sight!!! Original bushman caves with a viewing deck of the excavations.
With no direct access to the caves we turned around and headed back to the main path.
The major adventure of today’s leg of the hike was the crystal blue rock pools at Stilgat. Thoughts of swimming in the cool water on this glorious day buoyed us on at a speedy pace.
The pools were roughly half way from Noetsie to Hamerkop along the Oceanside cliffs. We quickly covered the 4 kilometres and came across the tall set of stairs that are a recent addition to the area.
With the pools in sight we quickly made our way down the many steps to the shore below.
Stripping off to our swim suits was easy. It was HOT and the pools looked too inviting to pass up. We gingerly crossed the sharp rocks with bare feet and made it to the Sandy bottom of the deepest part of the rock pools. With a pushing tide, the pool was constantly filled with fresh sea water.
We floated and rested and enjoyed this idyllic moment in time.
After a snack break in the sun we got dressed and climbed the many steps back up to the path. The sun was high by now and made the next few kilometres towards Hamerkop a sweaty job.
The heat radiated back off the rocks and sand that we walked on.
One of the gals reminded us to stop and turn around every now and then, so Christina and I stopped at the next big dip in the path to admire the view.
Then we powered on for the last 2 kilometres and hit the wide open beach. I HATE WALKING ON SAND and luckily it was only about 200 meters to the path that led up the house at the bottom of the hill. We marched up, stripped off and took a cooking shower in the outdoor shower.
The house was set back into the hill with a main door downstairs facing the beach and another door upstairs onto the driveway. We settled in and chose our beds upstairs in the loft away from the business below.
As the other dribbled in a couple at a time we settled on the deck for a cup of tea and pulled out a book.
Later we decided on a barbecue for dinner and sat around the fire before heading to bed tired and happy.
Here’s the route from Noetsie to Hamerkop along the coast and some stats along the way:
Follow me on Strava for instant hike updates.
In the meantime, so long from THE WHALE TRAIL. Stay tuned for the final 2 days of the hike in tomorrow’s blog.
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