Part 6/8:
Much of what is recognized as Mapo Tofu today can be attributed to chef Xue Xiangshun, who redefined the dish while working at Chen Mapo. Xue took influence from the fanpu culture of Chengdu, which involved diners assisting in the cooking process. His approach standardization and meticulous evolution transformed Chen Mapo into a proper restaurant, elevating Mapo Tofu into a celebrated dish.
Reconciling Different Accounts
As with many dishes steeped in history, several accounts contribute to our understanding of Mapo Tofu's origins. Notably, reports from writers like Li Jieren provide context regarding the local food culture and variations in preparation, suggesting that traditionally, Mapo Tofu may have alternated between beef and pork depending on regulations and consumer preferences.