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Steak is an incredibly divisive food; preferences vary widely when it comes to cuts, cooking methods, and flavors. Some patrons insist on dressing their meat with a variety of sauces, provoking disdain among purists. The controversial A1 steak sauce, for instance, has outsold gasoline in some years, suggesting a widespread appeal, yet quite a number of steak enthusiasts, including our chef, harbor strong bias against such condiments.