We were thrilled when we learned that the medieval Valeriola Palace on Calle Mar, just a stone’s throw from our apartment in Valencia, was being renovated for a new museum. The thrill evaporated, however, upon finding out that it would be housing a billionaire’s private art collection. When the museum opened, it took us a long time to finally visit, but once we did… the thrill returned. We cannot deny that the CAHH (Centro de Arte Hortensia Herrero) is fantastic.
Jürgen and I share many core beliefs, and among them is a vigorously anti-elitist worldview. The concept of a private museum named after its incomprehensibly wealthy benefactor, is something that’s going to rub us the wrong way.
So it’s really saying something that the CAHH won us over, completely. Works from some of the world’s preeminent modern artists (Georg Baselitz, Anish Kapoor, Alexander Kalder, Joan Miró) are tastefully spread across the palace’s stunningly restored rooms. Some pieces were created on commission, specifically for the space they inhabit. There’s a respect for the history of both the palace and the neighborhood. The entire experience, from the first room to the last, is captivating.
And although the collection features artists from around the world, there’s a discernible focus on works closer to home. An expert would probably be able to guess that Hortensia Herrero is Valencian, just by examining the way in which her collection centers around Valencian and Spanish art, before branching out further afield.
We loved how interactive many of the exhibits are. Kapoor’s mirrors that bend both your vision and mind; Mat Collishaw’s suffocating “Transformer”, dedicated to Fallas; Olafur Eliasson’s dizzying “Tunnel for Unfolding Time”. There are digital algorithmic works, bizarre sculptures, colored geometric shapes like bubbles, and even some regular old paintings. Spread across three floors, there is a lot to see, and all of it deserves your time.
Upon leaving the CAHH, I can’t say that we felt differently about billionaires. But we have to admit that some of them have exquisite taste. If we must live in a world where the ultra-elite own everything, we should at least be happy that some of them see fit to share.
From our Travel Blog
CAHH Photos
Wow, amazing kind of arts.Its an interesting place to explore.
It's well worth a visit - we loved it!
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