In this post, we’re going to concentrate on a section of town which isn’t on the typical itinerary for people visiting Valencia. If you cross the Turia riverbed into the districts of La Zaídia and El Pla del Real, you’ll encounter a different side of the city. Fewer historic buildings and plazas, but more local life and a much quieter atmosphere.
La Zaídia
The ancient road which connected Sagunto to Valencia passed through La Zaídia. In fact, one of the five neighborhoods that comprise the district, Morverde, takes its name from the ancient name of Sagunto: Murviedro. To enter Valencia from La Zaídia, you cross the Turia riverbed park over the pedestrian Pont de Fusta, and then beneath the imposing Torres de Serrano. It’s dramatic today, but in medieval times, when the river was flowing and the city walls were still standing, this road into the capital must have been extremely impressive.
Even though it’s literally across the river from the city center, just a two-minute walk from El Carmen, La Zaidía somehow feels far-flung. This is an area for locals, with some rough, charming edges, down-to-earth restaurants, and sidewalks that aren’t fully occupied by suitcase-dragging tourists. By any reckoning, La Zaídia is an extremely central part of Valencia, but it feels worlds apart from the hubbub of the old town or even Ruzafa.
Pla del Real
La Zaídia borders the district of the Pla del Real, separated by the Viveros park. These two zones couldn’t be more different from each other. While la Zaídia has an older feel to it, with its Neoclassical buildings, working class vibe, and narrow streets, the Pla del Real is more modern, with wider streets and more open spaces. This was where Valencia hosted its regional exposition in 1909, where the upper class built its houses, where the refined Jardines of Monforte are found, where upscale hotels today welcome guests. On that side of the Viveros: the rabble. On this side, the royalty.
To reach the center from the Pla del Real, you cross the 16th-century Puente del Real, and then you’ll enter into the neighborhood la Xerea (where we live). It’s not quite as jaw-dropping as passing through the Torres de Serrano, but just as beautiful.
We love exploring this area north of the city center, so nearby and so rich in contrast. Please enjoy our photos, and when you’re visiting Valencia, make sure to cross the bridge and check out some of these less-heralded neighborhoods.
From our Travel Blog.
La Zaídia and El Pla del Real Photos
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