Lake Como is a key spot on Italy’s tourist map and a gem of the Alps. Recently I visited Varenna, one of the lake's most beautiful towns. I was curious about how life unfolds today in this small fishing village, which has never been strategically significant. I tried to follow in Leonardo da Vinci’s footsteps to reach the source of one of the world’s shortest rivers. I learned about the ghosts inhabiting the medieval castle atop the mountain and discovered the secrets behind the ice cream that tastes like Lake Como.
The local people, known as Varennezi number fewer than 800. What do they do? What do they think about their town and the tourists? What are their dreams and life plans? These were the questions I sought answers to as I set out. If you’re traveling without a car, you can take a train from Milan’s central station and arrive within an hour. But there’s an even more exciting option: you can reach Varenna by private water taxi. Feel the speed, the gentle sway of the waves and the refreshing breeze. Relax on the deck of this elegant boat and enjoy the breathtaking views.
The first records confirming Varenna’s existence date back to 769, though sources suggest it was once Gallic land and later Roman territory. Indeed the word Varenna has Roman origins. Life along these sunny shores was never tranquil, but the Varennezi faced their challenges with honor. Vezio Castle, perched atop the mountain and majestic when viewed from the water, serves as a reminder of Varenna’s warrior past.
From the water you can see the town’s face. Its ceremonial portrait shaped over centuries. Weary fishermen and travelers returning on luxury boats have seen it this way too. Passing by the gardens, we headed toward the village of Fiumelatte. After a little over a kilometer, we arrived. A bold sign declared Fiumelatte to be Italy’s shortest river. I’d add the word "almost". This misconception has persisted for centuries.
The mountain trails and the Fiumelatte cave are among the most fascinating stops on the Grand tour, the long educational journeys across continental Europe. A path leads to the river’s source and the climb takes about 15 minutes. It’s not too challenging, but I’d recommend wearing comfortable shoes. The path is well-marked and a safe crossing is provided under the railway. Incidentally, this same railway connects Milan’s center to the towns on the eastern shore of the lake. While you shouldn’t expect perfect punctuality from local trains, they are still quite comfortable and fast, offering scenic views from the windows. Naturally, the views become even more stunning as you ascend.
Panoramas awaited us. Leonardo, Pliny the Elder, Lazzaro Spallanzani and many others passed through here to see the mysterious Fiumelatte. The river is also intersected by the 40 kilometer panoramic Viandante Trail. This spot near the source is not only an ideal place for travelers to take a break but also a gathering place for the village’s small yet close-knit population to enjoy picnics and celebrations. For example, March 25th marks the Annunciation of the Madonna and coincidentally the day the river begins flowing again after winter. October 7th, another Madonna feast day, Our Lady of the Rosary happens to be the day the river disappears.
The locals carefully preserve memories of those who contributed to the history and preservation of this village.
In memory of Uncle Victorio, with gratitude from everyone who has witnessed the beauty of this place. Thank you for your tireless and generous efforts.
The mountain water is refreshing and invigorating, but it’s time to move on. Crossing the bridge and taking the last few steps... and here we are! For decades, scientists searched for the mysterious source that feeds the river. Finally in 1983, a karst cavity was discovered 8 kilometers away, high in the mountains. This enormous natural reservoir was over a kilometer deep. Nine years later, a harmless dye was poured into the cavity and within minutes, the dyed Fiumelatte river confirmed the scientists’ hypothesis.
Perhaps the 100 meter climb took a bit longer than the promised 15 minutes. The return trip is certainly quicker. Ah yes, the final mystery of the river: its reappearance in spring after hibernating through winter. Around late March, as the snow melts, the lake overflows and water rushes through narrow caves toward Fiumelatte’s mouth. So, there’s nothing mystical about it.
We headed back to the lake and returned to Varenna to continue exploring this charming town. A few more souvenir photos and it was time to leave.
And so, we bid farewell to the village. Lake Como is Italy’s deepest lake and one of the deepest in Europe, with a maximum depth of 410 meters. Everywhere you go, you might hear the lake and its surroundings referred to as Lario. Lario is an ancient name, likely of pre Indo-European origin, later adopted into Latin and Greek. For instance, Virgil uses this name in his poetry. Since the Middle Ages, the lake has been called Locus Comacinus, later shortened to the familiar Como.
Back at the pier, time on the boat flew by. Finally the captain shared a local saying:
To experience hell, visit Varenna in summer or Bellano in winter.
This is because in summer, Varenna is the last place to see the sunset. The sun sets behind Menaggio. In winter however, Bellano is swept by freezing winds montive from the mountains, while in Varenna, it remains warm even at nine in the evening.
After such an exhilarating boat ride, we set off for the castle. This marks the end of the first post. I hope you enjoyed our walk through Varenna. See you in the second post.
Travel Digest #2454.
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