In my previous post I told you about my visit to Vezio's mystical castle with adorable ghosts and my walk along the Lover's path. The locals told us about some local ice cream shops. A few of them are right by the waterfront, so it was time to taste the local gelato.
Instead of sitting at tables, we enjoyed our delicious ice cream on the cushions, facing the lake. One of the ice cream flavors is named Lake Como (Lago di Como), a delightful mix of pistachio and almond.
We walked again along the beautiful path of the Lover's trail. In the northern part of Varenna there’s a port where large ferries depart. These ferries operate along the Como-Colico and Lecco-Bellagio routes. The nearest major stops are Menaggio, Cadenabbia and Bellagio.
Regular passenger transportation on the lake began in the 19th century and was initially operated by private companies. In 1826 the first steamship, named Lario, was launched. Since steam engines weren’t fully trusted at the time, the ship was also equipped with a mast and sail. However, progress was unstoppable and in the following years, more advanced and reliable ships were built. Such vessels were once used by local fishermen as well. Interestingly, this ship is still operational. During the summer festivals it’s used in historical reenactments depicting the evacuation of refugees from Comacina Island.
Ferries operate from 6 am to 11 pm. Depending on the route they run every half hour or hour on average. Not all of them have open upper decks, so if you want to enjoy the views, don’t hesitate to ask about this detail at the ticket office. Ticket offices are only available at major docks. If you’re boarding from a small town without a ticket office, you can purchase your ticket onboard without an extra fee.
Don’t be shy about asking which direction the ferry is heading when boarding. It’s better to ask than to go the wrong way. Passengers traveling with cars, motorcycles or bicycles need to buy a separate transport ticket. However, this can save you a lot of time. For example, it takes 15 minutes to reach Bellagio by ferry, while driving along the lakeside road takes over an hour.
Whether you choose a private water taxi or a large ferry, a lake tour should definitely be part of your Como itinerary. Perledo is located uphill. We took the winding road up to get a bird’s-eye view of Varenna. From here we started on scenic route 65, one of Italy's most beautiful routes, offering breathtaking views of the lake and mountains as it leads to the Aguello Pass.
We decided to take a short break—though the local ants wanted to join our picnic too! I’d like to raise my glass to all travel enthusiasts! Here’s to discovering wonderful and enchanting places ahead!
After recharging we arrived at Perledo’s main square, right next to the tiny structure of the local municipal building. From this completely empty square, you can enjoy mesmerizing views accompanied by the sound of the bell tower.
Have you ever noticed plaques in Italian churches indicating the century in which they were founded, often marked with Roman numerals like X or V? However, the architectural style often points to a later period. For instance, the Church of Saint Martin has been in this square since the 11th century, but its Baroque façade was built in 1755. Centuries have passed, the church has been rebuilt and altered and its status has changed. During the Renaissance, for example, it was the main church of the entire region. I like to compare such churches to people. You might not recognize someone from their childhood photo, but it’s still the same person, right?
The church is dedicated to Saint Martin, considered one of the five Catholic patron saints of France. One of the earliest known examples of his kindness and compassion was when he tore his cloak during a winter military campaign to give it to a completely naked man. This scene is also depicted here.
Varenna’s location is a great advantage because you can admire the city not only from within or across the water but also from above. For example, from this square, you can even see the haunted castle we visited earlier. Everything feels unusual in these small towns. For instance, a local kindergarten is located in this building. If you're seeking peace and quiet after a busy day, you can take a walk through the streets of Perledo. The bright facades of the houses create a pleasant contrast with the lake view, which seems to melt into a light mist.
Now it’s time to return to Varenna. Just below the city’s main square, there’s a small but very charming beach. The arch says ristorante, this is not a mistake. The restaurant is upstairs and these stairs lead down to the lake. Of course, this isn’t a white sandy beach and on some days, waves might bring in leaves and branches. But the water is clean and on warm days, both locals and tourists come here to cool off and sunbathe. It’s a great option for those who want to swim and explore without missing out on museums and tours. You can reach larger beaches on the lake by water taxi, train or car.
Our next destination is Villa Monastero. We’re almost at the villa, but just 20 steps before it there’s an entrance that seems insignificant. Let’s see where it leads. This is one of Varenna’s least-known spots, if such a thing exists in Varenna. But it’s definitely one of the most romantic. The stone wall looks alive and warm, with greenery and flowers bursting from the sun-warmed cracks, reflections in the water and rhythmic red railings creating a play of light and shadow.
As we leave it behind green terraces and cypress trees open up from an unusual angle, revealing the simple yet elegant facade of Villa Cipressi. The intimate, almost private feel of this path is enhanced by the lake view. From here, you can see the widest part of the lake and all three of its branches.
The gardens of Villa Monastero are bustling. Olive trees, ficus trees… The fruits have already grown. In a few months, they’ll be ready to taste. We then continued towards the famous Villa Monastero. Created by converting an ancient monastery built at the end of the 12th century, the villa has passed through many owners, with its last owners being the De Marchi family from Milan. They carried out the expensive construction and renovation work that gave the villa its current eclectic appearance.
In 1939 the villa was handed over to the state on the condition that it be preserved and used as a cultural institution open to the public. Fourteen years later a conference center was built here, where cultural and scientific conferences are still held today. In fact during the prestigious Italian Physics School’s summer courses, the famous Enrico Fermi came to Varenna to give lectures. Since 2003, a house museum has been established, restorations have been made and the original furniture has been brought back. One of the rooms where Fermi gave his final lectures in 1954 has been dedicated to him.
Undoubtedly the most beautiful part of the villa is its enchanting botanical garden filled with rare exotic plant species. Thanks to the lake’s mild climate, these plants thrive even outdoors. The complex consists of terraces lined along a path stretching towards the village of Fiumelatte. Colors and scents invite you to a peaceful lakeside walk among palm trees, citrus, oleander, agave, yucca, English roses, vibrant peonies and many other plants.
The garden’s spaciousness allows everyone to find a quiet corner to enjoy nature in silence. Additionally, the garden features small architectural structures, fountains, temples, reliefs and statues. At the southern end of the path, there’s a café.
Among the statues in the park, the most striking is the monumental sculpture group La Clemenza di Tito, created in a neoclassical style by Giovanni Battista Camoli as his final work before his death. Its subject is taken from the same libretto as Mozart’s last opera, La Clemenza di Tito.
The drama tells the story of Vitellia, daughter of the deposed Emperor Vespasian, who conspires against Emperor Titus, whom she loves. However, Titus loves someone else. The desperate Vitellia hires an assassin, but the assassin Sesto fails and is sentenced to death. Unaware of all this, Titus still chooses Vitellia as his wife. At the moment of Sesto’s execution, Vitellia can no longer bear her guilt and confesses. Titus valuing love over hatred, forgives them all. Camoli depicts this very moment: Titus sits on his throne while Vitellia and Sesto kneel at his feet.
Right next to Villa Monastero there’s another historic villa: Villa Cipressi, which has a beautiful botanical garden and an ornithology museum. The sun gently illuminates the city with its golden rays, filling squares and lawns with warm reflections. It’s time to fill a glass with chilled wine and watch the play of sparkling light. While the western shore is cloaked in twilight, a magical light show begins here. For a peaceful moment before sunset, be sure to climb one of the terraces or take a stroll along the waterfront. How delightful is the aroma of the wine! The sun will disappear behind the mountains in about fifteen minutes, but for now it’s time to savor its warm rays and the stunning sunset views.
From the open windows of colorful houses, the scents of meals being prepared for dinner drift out. The lake reflects the last glimmers of the day.
We bid farewell to Varenna. But this piece of wonderful beauty will remain in our hearts forever!
This concludes my post about Varenna. But where one story ends, another always begins. See you on future journeys.
It's really so incredibly beautiful, the beauty of the lake is truly amazing ❤️
Thank you so much for your kind words ❤️😊 The lake really is breathtaking
It's strange that your posts about such a beautiful place get so few votes, and all sorts of crap from a couple of photos and even without text 5-10 times more - I notice the same thing on my page. The award system is completely distorted and counterproductive, and most importantly, no one does anything about it -
it’s something I’ve noticed too and it can feel really disheartening. 😔
But I truly believe that your work is valuable and the people who really appreciate it will always connect with it. 🤗
🤷♂️
!PIZZA
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Hiya, @ybanezkim26 here, just swinging by to let you know that this post made it into our Top 3 in Your post has been manually curated by the @worldmappin team. If you like what we're doing, please drop by to check out all the rest of today's great posts and consider supporting other authors like yourself and us so we can keep the project going!bonita ciudad, tiene unos colores muy bonitos, tambien se aprecia la calidez del sol lo hace ver mas bonito aun!!