Field Research about Surfing In Croyde, South-England

Sarah Whiteley is the founder of surf school Walking on Waves in Saunton, South England, since 2003.

"My mother was one of the first female surfers in the province of Devon. I have been surfing in England for a very very long time! I have participated in many surf competitions worldwide but now I'm a surf instructor. Surfing has become more popular in England. More and more unexperienced surfers are in these waters nowadays. More people want to learn how to surf or just come over for one lesson. During the summers, more families come around, while during the winters, more experienced surfers come have a lesson." (Sarah Whiteley)

I interviewed Sarah for over two hours during my Field Research in Croyde, a small surfer's town in South England. People were quite suprised when they heard my stories by the time I came home from my Field Research about surfing in South England. And so was I! Before this research, I knew very little about the actual existence of surfing in England. Last June, my university in the Netherlands sent me and fifty other students to England to individually induct a field research on any topic we believed to be relevant in the area we were assigned to go. My topic wasn't quite the worst.. WAVE SURFING!

My host family had picked me up and we drove around the cliffs as we arrived in Croyde... The view! Damn, this was unexpected.... I was excited and started to realize that my time in England would become great! This was something I wasn't too sure about before I left.. I mean, individually inducting a field research in a small town in England? Could that be fun at all? Well...

Croyde view from up the hills (from the southern side of the town).

View on Croyde Beach from the Surfer's Lodge (northern hill side of Croyde)

But that wasn't just it. My host family had a beautiful house uphill with a swimming pool, tennis court and a beautiful garden full of tropical plants.

Tropical plants in the garden of my host which are quite common in this region as it's known for its relatively warm winters and quite cool summers.

Field Research

So far, so good! During the two weeks, I interviewed over 20 respondents about surfing in the region. I'm not gonna bother you with long stories about the research process as I have been to quite an amount of the surf shops, hostels, B&Bs and pubs. But there were amazing conversations and people I must tell you about!

Surfing - Back in the Days

The Museum of British Surfing is located in Braunton, a town nearby Croyde. It's worth a visit, the museum is full of old surf materials and stories about the surfing history. The earliest recorded surfing in Britain was in 1890, but in Croyde it became more common around 1930. Surf boards were large and made out of wood. Since the 70's, during the hippie movement, surfing became way more popular. I remember these words of the Museum Owner:

"Surfing isn't just a hobby, surfing is a lifestyle. Being one with the nature. The sound of the waves, the rhythm of the ocean, the salt and the sun. Being out there makes you feel alive. I encourage you to experience that!"

Picture: surfers in Cornwall, 1919.

I also interviewed an older woman whom had lived in Croyde for all of her life. She's 70 year old, still surfs in Croyde and she told me about surfing back in the days:

“People used to make their own boards by then, we hadn’t got wetsuits and the water is cold so we couldn't be out there for too long. We neither had leashes so it could be dangerous to fall off your board. We didn’t know any better and it was quiet in the waters, so my surfboard would rarely be of any danger to other surfers. Me as a girl surfting there, that was quite rare. I was one of the first girls around. Sometimes the boys were laughing at us because girls weren't used to surf by then. ”

Magazine The Point

Mark King is a surfer, director and photographer of the Point, a surf magazine in the region. Mark has been living in Devon for years. He has surfed all around the world. He told me alot about the history of surfing in Croyde and he had interviewed and photographed many surfers of back in the days. He gave me three of his magazines: the Point. Check out his pictures here.

The Wave Project

The Wave Project, is a project that helps teenagers to "overcome their demons" by providing them of fully funded surf lessons. It's actually a good way to have them go outside and encourage them to enjoy surfing.

Surf Shop Owner

"We always loved to surf and we really wanted to live in England. We don't want to live abroad, far away from our families. So that's actually why we came living here, Croyde is the perfect solution. We now run this surf shop. It's actually quite tough to make a living, but we can surf like everyday? And in case there's no swell, we can go paddleboarding too."

Host Family

"Everyone has had their own economical, social and cultural reasons to live in Croyde. The businesses have their own ways in which they use surfing. For example campsites and bed and breakfasts are now earning an extra income by lending surf gear next to their other activities and cafeterias and restaurants are decorated with surf art. Some businesses cooperate with surfers to earn more income and for example surf schools are advertised by local businesses."

To Conclude

Surfing in England exists as I have experienced it myself! I've had a wonderful time in Croyde. I am amazed by the beautiful people, nature and surf atmosphere. Croyde has an amazing history of surfing and is wonderful to visit for those that wish to experience both surfing and England at the same time!

#travel #photography #life #steemit #surfing

This is Sarah Whiteley, a Professional Surfer and One of the Interview Participants in my Field Research about Surfing in England!