Initially I found it hard to believe that the Utuen Traditional Institute in Aceh was still a form and there were still people who were willing to be "commander of the uteun" still exist and exist, because it was slaughtered with some government policy or secretly the existence of this "custom uteun" institution had disappeared by itself , because nobody cares anymore. In contrast to: Panglima Laot ", which for me as a northern coastal person Pase, Aceh Utara " panglima laot": well known, especially after the Aceh Tsunami, the existence of commander laot even known by foreign agencies who assisted the rehabilitation and reconstruction of Aceh post tsunami.
But my thoughts were about the existence: the commander of the uteun: unanimously denied, when first tracing the "Gampong" Forest of Sikundo Mukim Lango Village, Pantee Ceureumen Sub-district, West Aceh District. The wise forest management tradition has long been practiced for generations in the community there. During the week with the commander of the uteun in Sikundo I gained a lot of knowledge and knowledge about the customary "Adat Utuen" forest.
It is not easy to get to Sikundo, according to Teungku Idrus, the Mukim Secretary we met in Keude's Pantee, the locals calling for tarries in the Dutch-only capital are overwhelmed by the Cut Nyak Dhien guerilla war that once lived here.
Towards Sikundo we have to walk the fastest half a day, walking between steep hills and slopes, crossing several rivers and grooves and the most adrenaline rush is when passing through the 7 suspension bridges they call it, "Ayoun". Do not try desperately without the complete equipment, ranging from tents, flashlights, medicines, food logistics enough, as well as physical and mental course.
After walking for almost four hours. We crossed a fairly swift and rocky river with a swim. While on the first two-stringed suspension bridge. My heart was pounding, only able to see the accustomed Sikundo people, dancing on the two ropes that were crossing and tied up in the big trees. A guide tells me that, this bridge the Indonesian Armed Forces (TNI) from the Raider union has fallen from this bridge, and died because the water is very swift and not far from there seen "linggoung krueng" (river turn).
Opposite other comrades are waiting, has become a habit here, when going across the river and across the rope bridge two done together (cluster), so that if happened what can be quickly handled.
The first bridge I passed, though very slow and long. Some of the Sikundo people who happened to be with us would be a sometimes funny show. Occasionally they give a command or command, "Kangieng uyub", do not look down and others. It is true that we are on this bridge like a swinging swing here and there as if the bridge is running over water.
The first bridge I passed was greeted with laughter, so the tension slowly disappeared. We walked again. "There are 6 more bridges bang" said the guide. I just nodded and kept thinking that I would try faster and try to be bolder again.
Five bridges were passed without any obstacles, because our fatigue was resting on a blang shell (weed), we were treated to boiled peanuts there by a citizen. Looks green forest, mountains, splashing water in the river. Farmers in rice fields are cutting rice. It's fascinating. I immortalize some photos while looking at objects to stock a movie image.
We walked again, this time past the rice fields and banks of the river Hulu Krueng Meureuboe. A few moments later the new look settlement, simple construction houses owned by the people of gampong sikundo look quiet, they are doing activities in the fields and fields. In front and on the roof of the houses visible solar panels, because here the electric current from the PLN does not enter. Here also do not expect any mobile phone signal, I then non-switch it.
In my heart, finally arrived and I really want to take a bath and rest, because it is already late afternoon. At first I thought that we were staying in this area. However, it turned out that the house for our stay was on the other side of the river. "Bak na kouh tutu ayoun taloe two kreek lom sabouh teuk", (must pass one more bridge this) my inner.
Finally I am really free, the crew of filmmakers can rest, as a screenplay writer and director, I prepared some notes for the key questions on the subject of the movie. Check the condition of equipment such as camera, tripot, battery charg and others. The first night, while lying down, we were just busy talking about our trip, there were many things, especially about cuteness.
In our house there is a Genset machine, fortunately the mukim secretary reminded us to buy 5 liters of diesel during the Capital District of Pantee Ceureumen. Wake up in the morning after bathing in the river, enjoying my coffee headed to the house of the "Panglima Utuen".
I specifically came to his house which is somewhat separated from the settlement, his house is on the slopes of the mountain, when entering his house we cross the creek that is not far from his house. That morning he was waiting for me because he had been informed by the gampong secretary. House of simple stage, seen some fishing gear, hanging on the wall of his house. I was invited to go in, seen he was already preparing to go into the forest with our entourage. An elderly lady is cooking in the kitchen, that's his wife. I did not have time to ask if he had any children or not, afraid of being offended; I just put on the condition of nature, and the things we need to prepare when going into the forest. A moment later his wife appeared and served me coffee. After everything is ready, we also move into the forest and through the jungle. Commander of the uteun accompanied by the gampong secretary and we from the crew of 4 films, plus a local guide 2 people from village of Gampong Canggai.
Teungku Banta Lidan, that's what his name is, he's 55 years old still looks very healthy and strong, it looks to us and the entourage is always left behind when entering the forest, whereas our average age is still a three-headed. He never wore sandals wherever, it's everyday. When will mamantau forest he always ready to be accompanied by a machete and wearing a black cloth wrapped around his head, this Beutoung Beunggala turbans always wear when entering the forest. After walking for almost three hours we rested on a rangkang (cottage), then continued again through the river, krueng peureucouh. We rested there for over an hour.
He began to tell about the condition of Sikundo forest, previously still a virgin, but during the New Order regime they were forced to move. Nothing can be done when the company PT. Raja Garuda Mas (RGM) cleared their forests.
"Want to complain where, they have got government permission" he said with eyes stammered.
At that time they could only be silent without being able to fight, against at that time considered GAM fighters. When the conflict in Aceh peaked the company left, because the area of Sikundo used as a guerrilla bases of the Free Aceh Movement (Gerakan Aceh Merdeka, GAM). I've been beaten by soldiers because my name is the same as the name of the person they are looking for.
There are some taboos and restrictions when we are in the forest, according to him, for example, hanjeut taseumeurak lam utuen (not to shout in the forest), hanjeut kouh kayee toe ngon krueng (not allowed to sow trees on the banks), if you want to go to the forest and look for wood, specifically for wood for the house must be coordinated with the commander first uteun. For people who want to open the land, must hold khanduri uteun (kenduri uteun) first. Any violation will be subject to customary sanctions. Based on Tgk Banta Lidan, Panglima Uteun Sikundo is under Commander of Uteun Mukim Lango. This is seen when there is a trial of adat gampong custom court is not completed, it will be delegated to the Mukim Customary Court.
Until now, Teungku Banta Lidan as Commander of "Uteun" or forest has never received the name, wage, wage or salary from the government. Kareuna uteun nyoe enteuk tapulang keu aneuk cuco, teutap long guard (For the sake of my children and grandson keep this forest), misue uteun nyoe anco, pat tamita lom raseuki (because if the forest is destroyed, where we have to seek sustenance). Meunyoe uteun ka anco, nanggroe pih anco (If the forest is destroyed, wait for the destruction of the country). As soon as the last message the commander of the uteun, which still remains in my head.
Note
Panglima Uteun which means Forest Commander (a kind of forest handler, but his position is above the handler of the forest) is the person in charge of maintaining the beauty and sustainability of the forest. Under the Imuem Mukim (sub-district head), the Panglima Uteun has several duties, among others, as a party having the authority to uphold customary norms related to entering and managing forests, monitoring and imposing customary restrictions, functioning as collectors of all forest products ( to be ultimately paid to the king of 10%), and the Commander functioned as a judge in resolving any disputes in violation of customary law of the forest.
BAHASA
Belajar Pengolaan Hutan berbasis Kearifan Lokal: Sebuah Catatan Perjalanan Pembuatan Film Dokumenter
Awalnya aku sulit percaya, bahwa Lembaga Adat Utuen di Aceh masih wujud dan masih ada orang yang bersedia menjadi "panglima uteun" masih ada dan eksis, karena dibantai dengan beberapa kebijakan pemerintah atau diam-diam keberadaan lembaga "adat uteun" ini telah hilang dengan sendirinya, karena tidak ada yang peduli lagi. Berbeda dengan :Panglima Laot", yang bagi saya sebagai orang pesisir utara Pase, Aceh Utara-"panglima laot: sangat dikenal, apalagi paska Tsunami Aceh, eksistensi panglima laot bahkan sudah dikenal oleh lembaga asing yang membantu rehabilitasi dan rekontruksi Aceh paska tsunami.
Namun pikiran-pikiran saya tadi tentang keberadaan :panglima uteun: terbantah mentah-mentah, saat pertama kali menelusuri Hutan "Gampong" Desa Sikundo Mukim Lango Kecamatan Pantee Ceureumen Kabupaten Aceh Barat. Tradisi pengelolaan hutan yang arif bijaksana telah lama dipraktekkan secara turun temurun dalam masyarakat disana. Selama seminggu bersama panglima uteun di Sikundo saya mendapatkan banyak ilmu dan pengetahuan tentang "Adat Utuen" adat hutan.
Tidak mudah memang untuk mencapai ke Sikundo, menurut Teungku Idrus, Sekretaris Mukim yang kami jumpai di Keudee Pantee, sebutan warga disana untuk kedai yang berda di ibukota kecataman-Belanda saja kewalahan saat menghadapi perang gerilya Cut Nyak Dhien yang pernah tinggal disini.
Menuju Sikundo kita harus berjalan kaki paling cepat setengah hari, berjalan diantara bukit dan lereng terjal, menyebrangi beberapa sungai dan alur dan yang paling memacu adrenalin adalah saat melewati 7 jembatan gantung (tali dua) mereka menyebutnya, “Ayoun”. Jangan coba-coba nekat tanpa perlengkapan yang lengkap, mulai dari tenda, senter, obat-obatan, logistik makanan yang cukup, serta fisik dan mental tentunya.
Setelah berjalan kaki selama hampir empat jam. Kami menyebrangi sungai yang lumayan deras dan berbatu dengan berenang. Saat di jembatan gantung bertali dua pertama. Jantung saya berdegup kencang, hanya bisa melihat-lihat orang-orang Sikundo yang sudah terbiasa, menari di atas tali dua yang melintang dan di ikat di pohon-pohon besar. Seorang pemandu membisiki saya bahwa, dijembatan ini Tentara Nasional Indonesia (TNI) dari kesatuan Raider pernah jatuh dari jembatan ini, dan tewas karena airnya sangat deras dan tak jauh memang dari sana terlihat "linggoung krueng"(belokan sungai).
Diseberang kawan-kawan lain sudah menunggu, sudah menjadi kebiasaan disini, saat akan menyebrangi sungai dan melintasi jembatan tali dua dilakukan secara bersama-sama (berkelompok), agar kalau terjadi terjadi apa bisa cepat ditangani.
Jembatan pertama berhasil saya lewati, walau sangat pelan dan lama. Beberapa orang Sikundo yang kebetulan berpas-pasan dengan kami akan menjadi tontonan yang terkadang lucu. Sesekali mereka memberi aba-aba atau perintah, “Bek kangieng uyub”, jangan lihat kebawah dan lain-lain. Memang benar saat kita diatas jembatan ini seperti nak ayunan terayun kesana kemari seolah-olah jembatan sedang berjalan diatas air.
Jembatan pertama berhasil saya lewati disambut dengan gelak tawa, sehingga ketegangan perlahan hilang. Kami berjalan lagi. “Ada 6 jembatan lagi bang” kata pemandu. Saya hanya menganguk dan terus berpikir agar nantinya saya usahakan lebih cepat dan mencoba untuk lebih berani lagi.
Lima jembatan terlewati tanpa ada hambatan apa-apa, karena kelelahan kami istirahat sebantar pada sebuah rangkang blang (dangau), kami disuguhi kacang rebus disana oleh seorang warga. Terlihat hijaunya hutan, gunung, gemercik air di sungai. Petani di sawah sedang memotong padi. Sungguh mempesona. Saya mengabadikan beberapa foto sambil melihat-melihat objek untuk stock gambar film.
Kami berjalan lagi, kali ini melewati persawahan dan bantaran sungai Hulu Krueng Meureuboe. Beberapa saat kemudian baru terlihat pemukiman, rumah-rumah berkonstruksi sederhana milik masyarakat gampong sikundo terlihat sepi, mereka sedang beraktifitas di sawah dan ladang. Didepan dan di atap rumah-rumah terlihat panel surya, karena disini arus listrik dari PLN tidak masuk. Disini juga jangan berharap ada sinyal handphone, saya lalu me-non-aktifkanya.
Dalam hati saya, akhirnya sampai juga dan saya sangat ingin segera mandi dan istirahat, karena hari sudah sore. Awalnya saya berpikir bahwa kami menginap di daerah ini. Namun, ternyata rumah untuk kami menginap berada di seberang sungai. “Bak na kouh tutu ayoun taloe dua kreek lom sabouh teuk”, (harus melewati satu jembatan lagi ini) batin saya.
Akhirnya saya benar-benar merdeka, kru pembuat film sudah bisa beristirahat, sebagai penulis scenario dan sutradara, saya menyiapkan beberapa catatan untuk pertanyaan kunci pada subjek film. Memeriksa kondisi perlengkapan seperti kamera, tripot, cas baterai dan lain-lain. Malam pertama, sambil merebahkan badan, kami hanya asyik bercerita tentang perjalanan kami tadi, ada banyak hal, terutama tentang kelucuan-kelucuan.
Dirumah yang kami tempati ada mesin Genset, untunglah sekretaris mukim mengingatkan kami agar membeli 5 liter solar sewaktu ke Ibukota Kecamatan Pantee Ceureumen. Bangun pagi setelah mandi di sungai, menikmati kopi saya menuju ke rumah panglima utuen.
Saya secara khusus datang kerumahnya yang agak terpisah dari pemukiman, rumahnya berada dilereng gunung, saat akan memasuki rumahnya kita menyebrang anak sungai yang terpaut tidak jauh dari rumahnya. Pagi itu memang beliau menunggu saya karena telah diberitahukan oleh sekretaris gampong. Rumah panggung sederhana, terlihat beberapa alat tangkap ikan, tergantung di dinding rumahnya. Saya dipersilahkan masuk, terlihat beliau memang sudah bersiap-siap berangkat masuk hutan bersama rombongan kami. Seorang perempuan lanjut usia sedang memasak didapur, itulah istrinya. Saya tidak sempat bertanya apakha punya beliau punya anak atau tidak, takut tersinggung ; saya hanya menyakan kondisi alam, dan hal-hal yang perlu kami persiapkan saat akan memasuki hutan. Sesaat kemudian Istrinya muncul dan menyuguhkan kopi untuk saya. Setelah semuanya siap, kamipun bergerak masuk ke hutan dan menerobos rimba belantara. Panglima uteun ditemani oleh sekretaris gampong dan kami dari kru film berjumlah 4 orang, ditambah pemandu lokal 2 orang dari gampong canggai.
Teungku Banta Lidan, begitulah namanya, beliau yang berusia 55 tahun masih terlihat sangat sehat dan kuat, terlihat kami dan rombongan selalu tertinggal jauh saat memasuki hutan, padahal usia kami rata-rata masih berkepala tiga. Beliau tidak pernah memakai sandal kemanapun, itu kesehariannya. Saat akan mamantau hutan beliau selau siap siaga ditemani parang dan memakain kain hitam yang dililit membalut kepalanya, turban khas Beutoung Beunggala ini selalu dikenakannya saat akan masuk hutan. Setelah berjalan hampir tiga jam kami beristirahat pada sebuah rangkang (pondok), lalu melanjutkan lagi melewati sungai, krueng peureucouh. Kami beristirahat disana selama satu jam lebih.
Dia mulai menceritakan kondisi hutan Sikundo, sebelumnya masih perawan, namun pada masa Rezim Orde Baru mereka terpaksa pindah. Tidak ada yang bisa dilakukan saat perusahaan PT. Raja Garuda Mas (RGM) membabat hutan mereka.
“Mau mengadu kemana, mereka telah mendapat izin pemerintah” katanya dengan mata terbata-bata.
Pada masa itu mereka hanya bisa diam tanpa bisa melawan, melawan pada masa itu dianggap pejuang GAM. Saat konflik Aceh memuncak pihak perusahaan hengkang, karena kawasan Sikundo dijadikan markas gerilyawan Gerakan Aceh Merdeka (GAM). Saya pernah dipukuli tentara karena nama saya sama dengan nama orang yang mereka cari.
Ada beberapa pantangan dan larangan saat kita di hutan menurutnya, misalnya, hanjeut taseumeurak lam utuen (tidak boleh berteriak dalam hutan), hanjeut kouh kayee yang toe ngon krueng (tidak boleh menabang pohon di bantaran sungai), kalau mau masuk hutan dan mencari kayu, khusus untuk kayu buat rumah harus berkoodinasi dengan panglima uteun dulu. Bagi masyarakat yang ingin membuka lahan, harus mengadakan khanduri uteun (kenduri uteun) dulu. Kalau ada yang melanggar akan dikenakan sangsi adat. Berdasarkan penuturan Tgk Banta Lidan, Panglima Uteun Sikundo berada dibawah Panglima Uteun Mukim Lango. Hal ini terlihat saat ada sidang diperadilan adat gampong tidak selesai, maka akan dilimpahkan ke Peradilan Adat ditingkatan Mukim.
Sampai saat ini Teungku Banta Lidan sebagai Panglima Uteun tidak pernah menerima yang namanya, upah, jerih ataupun gaji dari pemerintah. Kareuna uteun nyoe enteuk tapulang keu aneuk cuco, teutap long jaga (Karena demi anak cucu saya tetap menjaga hutan ini), misue uteun nyoe anco, pat tamita lom raseuki (karena kalau hutan ini hancur, dimana kami harus mencari rezeki). Meunyoe uteun ka anco, nanggroe pih anco (Kalau hutan sudah hancur, tunggulah kehancuran negeri). Begitu pesan terakhir panglima uteun, yang sampai sekarang masih membekas dalam kepala saya.
Catatan
Panglima Uteun yang berarti Panglima Hutan (semacam pawang hutan, namun jabatannya berada di atas pawang hutan) adalah orang yang bertugas menjaga keasrian dan keberlangsungan hutan. Berada di bawah Imuem Mukim (setingkat camat), Panglima Uteun ini memiliki beberapa tugas, diantaranya adalah sebagai pihak yang memiliki otorita menegakkan norma-norma adat yang berkaitan dengan memasuki dan pengelolaan hutan,mengawasi dan menerapkan larangan adat, berfungsi sebagai pemungut segala hasil hutan (untuk pada akhirnya disetorkan kepada raja sejumlah 10%), dan Panglima berfungsi menjadi hakim dalam menyelesaikan sesuatu perselisihan dalam
Tulisan ini sudah pernah saya publikasikan di blog:
https://www.kompasiana.com/zulfadli.kawom/kenangan-bersama-panglima-uteun-sikundo_55285675f17e61cf3e8b4596