Wow Marly powerful story, thanks for sharing! I always wondered how you came to be where and who you are, but always assumed you'd been surfing since childhood. This gives me hope that I too could become a surfer some day as I approach my 30th birthday. Sort of felt like I was too old to get into it but obviously it can be done!
Amazing as well that ability to dig deep and find energy that you didnt know was there when you really want something. What a special memory this must be :)
Here's to 32 more years full of waves!
Yeah well it's not been easy at an age of 30+. Everything is smoother when we're young, haha!
But if you're a sporty person in general, you can start doing almost any kind of sports at any age.
I wasn't perfectly trained when I had my very first lesson. It was a period of time in my life where I fully enjoyed eating a lot of pasta and pizza π Through surfing I lost many kg of unnecessary body fat over the years. That helps a lot when it comes to jumping on that board. In the beginning I felt like a sea lion trying to get up, hahaha!Thanks for your nice comment, @adventureevryday!
Cheers to the next 32 - or 30 in your case! π