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RE: My Very First Wave 🌊🌊🌊 How I Started To Live For Real And Why I Believe In Miracles [A Surfergirl's History]

in #lovefriday β€’ 7 years ago

I still surf almost daily if there are waves. I am a bit obessive about it and it is is hard for me to mantain balance like you mentioned. Sometimes I surf for 8 hours straight.

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8 hours straight?!? Are you kidding? I've never met a person who's able to do that... Wow! So where do you surf?

Mainly in the Santa Barbara/Goleta area. I ride my bike to the beach in about 5 minutes with surfboard under my arm.

Oh that sounds perfect to me! I'm happy for you πŸ˜ƒ
I've been to Santa Barbara once and loved the ambient.