Beware of the A-Line skirt: making the Delphine skirt from Tilly Walnes

in #needleworkmonday6 years ago (edited)

An A-Line skirt is perfect: Easy to make, will flatter every figure and is a great addition to a capsule wardrobe.

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I have read these lines many times on blogs, magazines and recently in a sewing book I got for my birthday. And guess what: it’s a lie. These A-line skirts are from hell, or another unpleasant dimension. Strangely I seem to forget this inside every time I look at another photo of a beautiful model wearing one of these torture-devices A-Line skirts. My latest deceiving photo was the cover of Tilly Walnes book „Love at first stitch“. So beautiful!!!!! I wanted this skirt (read: I want to look like Tilly on the cover) I may have forgotten that my body looks a tiny bit different 🤪🤪🤪

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Some weeks ago, I found a wonderful mustard corduroy fabric in the bargain box of my favourite fabric store and I could not resist and bought it. The amount was much to little for my typical skirt pattern, the half circle skirt. So, I thought the before mentioned A-Line skirt the perfect alternative. It needed much less fabric and I would learn again how to insert a zipper into a waistband. Besides I would learn from scratch to work with woven fabric which I untill today seldom used.

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Tracing the pattern was easy but deciding on the size not. This may be one of the problems I had with this skirt. My natural waist measures 80 cm but sits so high up it is nearly beneath my bust. Not the perfect place for a skirt to sit, in my view. Normally I wear my (stretchy) skirts on my hips, which measure about 98 cm. But from my other experiments with skirts made from woven fabrics, I already knew the skirt will not stay on my hips, it will crawl upwards to the smallest point of my torso. So, which size to choose… There are some more parameters to consider: I do not like tight waistbands and my body gets even wider at my bottom and my thighs.
Finally, I decided to use size 6 as a middle course (when I am writing it like this, it should be clear, dear reader, it did not work out).

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Getting size 6 to fit on the fabric was a bit like Tetris, but I managed. But while cutting I already sensed that the waistband was unusually high (ca. 10 cm). I went on and did everything as the instructions told me. By the way, the instructions are very clear and the photos and design of the book lovely. I started with closing the side seams and trying the skirt on. As expected after the problem with the size-choosing it didn’t fit. Not only was the skirt too wide it also gaped above my behind. Not a new problem for me, so I decided to insert two back darts which are each 5 cm wide. This helped the fit immensely. The next step was ironing on the interfacing on the waistband. Then sewing the waistband together and pinning it right sides together on the skirt and sewing it. Tada… it still didn’t fit. The waistband was so high it reached up to my smaller parts of the torso and gaped everywhere. My solution was to cut it down to a height of 6 cm (I did the same with the inner parts of the waistbands) and to make the waistband and the skirt smaller. This meant, I had to unpick the whole skirt… yeah… fun… This looked better, but not good.

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I accepted the okeyish fit and inserted the zipper while holding my breath. The instruction of the book requires a completely different sewing foot, so I had to look elsewhere for an explanation. I found it in my brain; remnants of zipper instruction floated around, and I just picked one. I basted the complete middle seam of the back parts and then put the zipper on this seam. I pinned the zipper with needles and sewed it in. Afterwards I cut the basted stitches, so that I could use the zipper and made a proper seam for the rest of the back parts.

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The zipper worked out ok, but the skirt ‘s fit got worse. It now was too wide at my thighs and had folds and creases everywhere. I decided to sew the sides anew without unpicking the whole skirt again. I guess I was devastated at this moment and only wanted to get it done. So, I pinned the inner parts of the waistband on the the right side of the actual waistband, folded the sides and sewed the damned beast facing in.

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Last step was sewing the hem. I folded the hem two times, ironed it vigorously and again seeeewwwwing. This was no problem, but the skirt – sigh – what shall I say – I like the color.


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I guess a classic A-Line skirt is not for me – maybe because of my curves or because of my lacking skills regarding pattern adaption. I am still searching for a nice skirt pattern for woven fabrics, which will fit me in the waist area. Do you have any recommendations? I am thinking about this pleated skirt or this gathered skirt which could perhaps fit on my hips. But I am very unsure if these designs will add too much bulk… I also found this vintage style skirt, which is a free pattern and this buttoned and gathered skirt, also free. But after this A-Line experience I am super unsure what to try next.





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You did a great job, it looks good. I also have an a-line skirt that had similar issues. It’s that thing where you know the issues with it, but other people don’t, so you think it’s weird bit others think it looks great. It looks great, your adaptations worked! 😊 learning the details of alterations is a fantastic skillset!

Thaaank youuu <3 <3 Although I still find the fit of this skirt a bit strange I wear it constantly. I am so in love with the color and the corduroy... But believe me, my alterations skills need a proper sewing course, as up today most is only trial and error (more error mostly) and I am so impatient and imprecise, not sure sewing is the right hobby for me :-DDD

Sewing is a skill that no one can take away from you.
Here is my attempt to tailor by adding darts. It’s what one gets for doing fancy stitching. Such a mess!
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It’s worth learning how to make something from scratch so at the very least you know how well a garment off the rack is made. And, you can mend or alter stuff. Especially thrift shop finds!

Not bad on the zipper 🤓
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Maybe I’ll wear it this week. It’s thin fabric, but will work with a pair of bloomers. ☺️ ABA1D958-104A-4CD3-A588-13F2EF9E3996.jpeg


BTW love the butter color of the corduroy!
🌊🌙Thanks for the inspiration @neumannsalva

The zipper is perfect! It’s completely hidden, mine is much too visible (I was afraid to sew too close) And the fabric of your skirt is so summery. Did you drafted the pattern yourself? Are you content how it fits (after you inserted the darts - which by the way for my unschooled eye look ok)?

You flatter me ☺️. The darts are ok, it’s the waistband that got messy. I really wanted an invisible zipper, they are tough.
The pattern was a rip-off from the costume shop I worked at years ago. It’s just five angled long cuts and the waistband. The big mistake was the fancy double stitching. It mad it difficult to alter, but it drapes nicely. Still haven’t put it on again yet. 😁
I hope it still fits! Tee hee

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OH woooow -thank you so much!!! Perhaps now someone will read it and come up with a solution for this unfitting A-line skirt :-D


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Thank you so much for your awesome work and for choosing my post <3

The coolest and most tense story about sewing I ever read, a bit like a thriller about the ancient cursed cut... :) Great post, like this photo story very much

Thank you so much and I am happy I could make sewing sound like a crime story :-DDD But believe me, I was tense the whole time and as i have written to @marblely and @crosheille before, I suspect a complot of zippers. Perhaps they developed consciousness over the last twenty years and are now secretly sabotaging sewing projects....

Don't be so strict neumannsalva, the skirt looks nice on you :) The color fits well!

Many patterns I like don't fit to my body. I adjust a pattern over few times and I get a perfect one. So keep on searching new patterns and keep on adjusting the one you like! I have to adjust my wide pant I made recently (I got to know it's too wide :D).

Wurd!😁

Thank youuuu, but believe me, my mother told me to better not wear it as it has so many creases and does not sit right on my belly and back. But although it brought me some grey hairs, I have worn it three days in a row. I am in love with this colour and fabric (only the fit... sigh...)
I remember your pants, and I liked the fabric. Do you already know what to do with them? Can you alter them a bit and then they will be ok, or is bigger surgery necessary?

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Thank you so much for choosing my post: haaaappppyyyy

I always love reading your "pattern modification" posts. You write all those feelings and emotions out on the page, which is the best way to get it all out. I like A-line skirts also, but because of my backside, I cannot wear them. Really love the skirt and it looks good on you!!

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Thank you so much <3 And you are right, writing about feelings often helps. And I had a lot of feelings toward this dress :-D
Do you have a solution for skirts? What style of skirts do you prefer? I mostly make half-circle skirts with an elastic waist, but I would love to widen my horizon.

Great post, @neumannsalva. I wonder whether you could get in touch with Tilly and the Buttons to see if they can suggest how to sort the problem?

You did a great job and should be proud to be wearing a 'me-made-may' skirt ! - oh and you even got chocolate cake !! :D

I have never thought of this... hmmm... contacting the designer. I am not sure, but I guess my sewing qualities are still not good enough and they could always blame me for this (and perhaps for choosing the wrong size) But on the other side I like the idea very much. Perhaps they could recommend a clever hack and than everything fits perfectly ...

beautiful creation, here in my country we say bells skirts because they have a cone-like shape, they also have great advantage because they do not get up so easily in the breeze

Thank you so much for the compliment <3 And yes this skirt will not be blown away, the corduroy is fairly heavy and as you said, the fit does not allow the wind underneath it. I mostly wear wider skirts or dresses and I had this problem already 😂

I think it looks adorable! The color is perfection. I hate zippers...partly because my machine was found in the attic of the house I bought so I'm not entirely sure it's not haunted since no zipper foot ever works. I applaud your efforts and think you should wear it proudly!

Thank you so much for the compliments - the colour was the main reason why I purchased the fabric.
Oh noooo a haunted sewing machine (this would be great topic for a cozy mystery 😁) I am sure this is the reason the zipper foots don’t work... or maybe someone could have a look at your machine and repair it. Especially older machines often are super sturdy and it can be worthwhile to repair them.
I have won my machine in a book store (really... I filled out a competition from a crafts publisher) and although it was a nice machine and inspired me to take up sewing, it is very simple and cannot make buttonholes etc. I was in a shop with it and repairing was no option. I just got a new one 😊🌈
To cut a long story short, I still hate zippers 😂😂😂 (but it is a bit easier with the new machine, as it sews much more evenly)
And congratulations to your house 💕🌈🎉

Even though it wasn't what/how you wanted, good job on the skirt.

Thank youuuuu... but I still dream of the perfect skirt pattern, which I can reproduce easily several times.

An A-Line skirt is perfect: Easy to make, will flatter every figure and is a great addition to a capsule wardrobe.

I have read this before too!! Dang, there goes my wish list. But you know what, I think you look good with the skirt 😍 You are so brave to attempt this, plus with zipper!! And your turned out nicely.
One thing I did experience before is that sewing with corduroy can be a challenge. Somehow the fabric stretched for me. I was sewing shorts for my nephews and the fabric stretched, making one side longer than the other and I cheated my way by snipping the extras off. Hehe.

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And your problem solving skills in sewing are very straight forward :-DDDOh no, I didn‘t want to discourage you 😱 Perhaps your figure is better suited to this skirt and than it would be really a good pattern (but I think @tali72 is right, hips and curves are not the perfect combination for this skirt). I even think you would not need such a long explanation how to make it as you are more accomplished in sewing and altering clothes. My corduroy did not stretch, but therefore the fabric trickled flocks of yellow threads and fluff... very annoying. But I so love corduroy. I guess it reminds me of autumn and fantasy novels like Harry Potter... In my imagination Wales and Scotland is full of fairies, magicians and people who wear corduroy 😂 @cryptocariad already knows my delusion 😆

I understand why you chose that fabric - it really is beautiful, that colour can go with so many autumnal hues as well as shades of purple and pink- lovely.
As you know, I don't sew, but my guess is that all those blogs and instructions manuals who say that A-line skirt is easy to make, what they actually mean is that it's easy to make for a 0 size model like that Tilly... for the rest of us, curvier women, I suppose it's important to make a number of adjustments. I know my dress-maker always brings me in for a couple of fittings even when she's making something relatively simple.

So well done for you on completing the skirt - it actually looks lovely on you, looks like all your adjustments have worked!


And the A-Line... sigh .... I am still unconvinced that it isn’t a punishment for female sewist...🤣 But - being serious - you are perhaps right, that most pattern are for a completely different body type, one without curves. Before I decide to sew a pattern, I normally research, if there are reviews of plus size woman (as I am more plus than straight size at the bottom) For the Delphine Skirt I found many slim woman who ade the skirt but no curvier ones. It wasn’t my best to use the pattern anyway.
And thank you so much for the compliments. Although I find the fit super nice on me, I really love the Color and have worn it several times so far.Yes absolutely!!! Autumnal colours. I just wrote in a comment above to @marblely that corduroy reminds me of the Wales and Scotland. In my imagination the countries are inhabited mostly by fairies, magicians and they all wear beautiful pants and skirts made of corduroy (paired with hand knitted cardigans and crochet bags) 🤣 My explanation is, that I have read too many fantasy novels or watched Harry Potter one time too often...

I know very well that this is when the skirt creeps upwards when walking. it's horrible! Oh! how offensive dear! You have spent so much effort and time and are not happy with the result. To be honest, I do not always trust what others write and publish. My husband says that many authors often did not try to do something about what they write. I once decided to make chocolate. I followed the recipe in everything. And what do you think? for those ingredients it was absolutely impossible to make chocolate because I only had a dry mix. I tried to add that one other thing, but in the end it turned out just like you and your skirt. or maybe you are right that for this type of skirt you need a certain figure (read lack of hips) :))))

I hade to smile: a chocolate dry mix 🤣🤣 This is perfect (and funny) I one time found a recipe for a handmade skin mask (for the face) on Pinterest... The first ingredients were nice and perhaps even good for your skin (avocado and honey) but they also used beet root!!!! Can you imagine ? Beet root for a face mask, the skin would turned completely red. So, yes your husband is right, I also assume many don‘t try their own recipes before posting.
And with the skirt... I am still searching for a fitting pattern for my curvier body... I guess hips are difficult to fit into a A-line skirt, know I know better.

beet root ???? ha ha ha)))) after such a mask, we would go into the category of red-faced)))))) You know that I don’t know how to sew at all, so I can’t suggest something clever))) but I know that a woman differs from a man in that she has hips! )))) you have a beautiful feminine figure and I am sure that you will definitely find styles of skirts that will emphasize the beauty of your figure

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