Hey David. The mill its self is around $2500-$3000. The real cost is in the maintenance equipment(Blade sharpener, tooth setter). $6500 maybe for the whole set up, with 30 blades.(excluding custom made trailer). Chainsaw mill is the best start I think, easiest to maintain(Alaskan mill will get anybody by for $300-chainsaw).
That's a lot! But I figured it would be about that. You guys made the trailer, or did you find someone who sells them? Definitely worth the $$$ if you have access to good trees. Did you dry the lumber for a while before using it?
Hi David. No, I have not made the trailer, the previous owner had. The previous owner was a seller of the woodland mills out of Saskatchewan, I believe he made the trailer as a add-on/up grade when he sold them(very good welding and engineering skills). As for drying.. The rule of thumb is 1yr per inch, so a 8"x8" beam would take 8yrs to fully dry/adapt to the environment. The timber framing method was developed for the use of "wet" beams. The beams are still a sorta living entity when wet, they swell a little in the spring and shrink a bit in the winter(the frame breathes), and by using vertical 1"x6"ship lap (1/4" spacing )to cover the frame, it allows the frame to be more dynamic, while the outside "stick frame" to be static. I sometimes have trouble in my explanations, I will be sure to include the Timber Framing Theory with my posts at each step of the build. BIG DISCLAIMER, this will only be my second timber frame, I am no expert by any stretch. I have made so many BIG heart breaking mistakes(Bloopers and Blunders will be posted at end of the project), however there is no better way to learn, but by the mistakes one makes. And as for the trees, they are green spruce and insanely heavy. So when we go logging we only take the trees that are suitable size for the job. We still do have some old growth forests in Manitoba, and some of the trees still around are awe inspiring. Our technique for logging is Zero impact(No road building, no heavy equipment, and very selective cutting).
Wow! Thanks for that detailed explanation! So many questions. I don't know if I will ever get to be involved with a construction project such as that, but I am still keenly interested in the topic. I'll try to let you make your posts and just watch. Thanks for the info!
Hey David. The mill its self is around $2500-$3000. The real cost is in the maintenance equipment(Blade sharpener, tooth setter). $6500 maybe for the whole set up, with 30 blades.(excluding custom made trailer). Chainsaw mill is the best start I think, easiest to maintain(Alaskan mill will get anybody by for $300-chainsaw).
That's a lot! But I figured it would be about that. You guys made the trailer, or did you find someone who sells them? Definitely worth the $$$ if you have access to good trees. Did you dry the lumber for a while before using it?
Hi David. No, I have not made the trailer, the previous owner had. The previous owner was a seller of the woodland mills out of Saskatchewan, I believe he made the trailer as a add-on/up grade when he sold them(very good welding and engineering skills). As for drying.. The rule of thumb is 1yr per inch, so a 8"x8" beam would take 8yrs to fully dry/adapt to the environment. The timber framing method was developed for the use of "wet" beams. The beams are still a sorta living entity when wet, they swell a little in the spring and shrink a bit in the winter(the frame breathes), and by using vertical 1"x6"ship lap (1/4" spacing )to cover the frame, it allows the frame to be more dynamic, while the outside "stick frame" to be static. I sometimes have trouble in my explanations, I will be sure to include the Timber Framing Theory with my posts at each step of the build. BIG DISCLAIMER, this will only be my second timber frame, I am no expert by any stretch. I have made so many BIG heart breaking mistakes(Bloopers and Blunders will be posted at end of the project), however there is no better way to learn, but by the mistakes one makes. And as for the trees, they are green spruce and insanely heavy. So when we go logging we only take the trees that are suitable size for the job. We still do have some old growth forests in Manitoba, and some of the trees still around are awe inspiring. Our technique for logging is Zero impact(No road building, no heavy equipment, and very selective cutting).
Wow! Thanks for that detailed explanation! So many questions. I don't know if I will ever get to be involved with a construction project such as that, but I am still keenly interested in the topic. I'll try to let you make your posts and just watch. Thanks for the info!