Hey @creatr. Thanks for stopping by. The yellow board guy's name is Glen and he was our neighbor. He's a 62 year old 12 year old. The most stoked guy in the world about surfing. He dresses like santa on Christmas and the kids love it. Take care!
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Glen sounds terrific! :D
I have played Santa as well... On and offshore.
One Christmas I pinned a Santa cap to a hood and went out surfing. It was a traffic stopper, with people parking and watching for a while. Must be the long white beard... Or is it the fat belly? ;D
You take care as well, thanks for the reply!
Where do you usually surf? I grew up in Huntington/ Newport and went to college in San Diego. Lived for a stint in Hawaii and Costa Rica. I have my favorite spots in each...but they are are similar and feel the same, I love it.
I consider my "home break" to be a small cove in Carlsbad.
There is a spot at the bottom of the stairs designated by the words "rainwater, dolls, laziness" that has been my launch point for many an exciting adventure ( see the link below ).
The cove is just south of a reef called "Terramar," which is a point break that peels both ways.
Sadly enough, I have been terribly busy trying to make a living selling a life-saving health product that I invented, and so have not been getting to the beach remotely often enough in the last few years.
We're trying to arrange to move closer to the beach in the hope of remedying that problem! :D
Awesome! Im going to surf in Oceanside tomorrow. Maybe I'll see you out there some time.
That would be great!
Look for the more or less blind surfer with the long white beard and no wetsuit... ;)
Good man! I'm half blind too. Got shingle in my left eye lest year. I see two waves coming at me instead of 1.