Every time you step in to the water I think we are at some sort of risk because we are not in our natural element. But I think this is also why surfing is one of the greatest activities one can do. The excitement of the power of nature moving underneath your feet can't be matched.
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I couldn't agree more :-)
Today I'll paddle out again after a 10-days-break. Can't wait to feel the power you mentioned under my feet.