@smithlabs I came into the solar stuff knowing a good bit about DC power, electronics, wiring, inverters, AC electrical 'best practices' and low voltage systems in general but even with all of that I wish I had at the time had someone like you that I could ask questions of and get good advice from. I am not sure @ganjafarmer knows how fortunate they are to be getting advice from both a hack like me and a pro like you.
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Experience is NO hack! He can gain by both views; many minds cover problems better. I enjoy every solar system, complex to simple, and everywhere in between! It is fun to see how some things are solved in novel ways, every now and then I can use their solution to fix my own, or someone else's, problems.
:)I intend to run 24 volts myself, because it is the highest voltage I can get decent priced on power inverters.
I hear you there. I was actually using 'hack' in the best sense of the word. :)
I have been leaning towards putting together a 24 volt system because my charge controllers support both 12 volt and 24 volt systems and one of my panels is actually a 24 volt panel but I have been using it on a 12 volt system. I really only need to get a pair of matching batteries (or one 24 volt forklift battery) to have a 24 volt system. The major appeal for me with 24 volt is that it can run a larger watt inverter. I don't really use anything that needs a larger inverter but I like having the option. I have mainly stuck with 12 volt because I like the simplicity but most forklift batteries are 24 volt so between that and the option of running a higher watt inverter I am definitely thinking it over.
I have about 300 Amps at 24 Volt of LiIon cells. I am about 1/3 of the way where I want to be at 21,000 watts (900+ Amps at 24 Volts). All my inverters are 24 volts, and my smallest in 1500 Watts.
That is going to be one whopping battery bank when you are finished. Are you going so high with your watts so that it can handle a whole house startup surge? It seems like 10,000 watts is all that is really necessary if you discount the initial startup of refrigerator compressors etc.
I found a 67 watt, 12.6cu foot, 24 volt, refrigerator freezer. The power is for 2 one ton, mini split systems that draw 900 watts each. For a combined 1800 watts, I can heat and cool the whole house.
My wife has MS, and is not able to take the temperature changes. So I am removing that problem. But that is why the overkill on the battery system. I have also located a wind generator (1700 watts) that should give me about 450 watts at our average wind velocity here.
All of those devices sound rather efficient. Yeah wind or hydro is a great secondary system for those overcast days. I guess you already know about the dump load factor when it comes to wind turbines.
I plan on efficiency, and it has taken a while to find the right ones, but I am happy with what I have found thus far!
With the added insulation, and the new windows, I will be well able to power the entire system, and generate a surplus. I will also be running my water well from this system too.
Already have the dunp resistors here for the full output if I need it. But the Property is currently on the grid, so if I get enough extra power, I have a synchronous Inverter that will allow me to sell it back t the power company. The dump load is in case the SHTF, and there is no where to sell the extra.
If not, I can use it to piggy back another inverter, if I find one close to overload. I may pick up several more, they are so useful.
I plan on building and adding, a vertical axis machine of my own design; when I get the chance.
:)I also plan to run 24 volts into the house for lighting and low power applications.
:)A straight 24 volt feed with outlets etc? If so that is what I have been planning to do with 5 volt DC because I can use small gauge wire and standardize all my plugs/outlets to USB to run fans, lights and charge small devices.
I plan to run separate 24 volt power down the old central heat and air plenum. That will allow me to still use the 110 volt power. I need to decide what plug to use on the 24 volt power.
That's a pretty neat idea with the plenum. I guess you would still need to run conduit to keep the vermin from chewing on the wires. The first thing to come to mind about an outlet/plug for your 24 volt system is an external jumper cable port used on vehicles. They are pretty stout. Here is a part number that you can reference them with: SY6325G1 They are rated at 600 volts DC or AC so it should be more than sufficient.
Yes that is a front runner, because of the safe polarity, and ease of finding parts. I have been looking for some that are magnetically connected, so the cable only has to be close, and the connector will connect up. I have time on that.
I will run it mice proof, but I intend to pay to have the sub floor area sprayed with expanding foam to seal it from mice. They claim to have a natural additive that stops them from tunneling back in (I think it is Alum).
:)