Ocean 1 Surfer 0

in #sports • 6 years ago

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Hey Fam Bam 🙂

It’s been a couple days since my last post, and you will know why in a second.

All I want to say is I appreciate all my followers, and I am grateful for the value they also bring to others.

So the last few days I have not felt as if I wanted to make a post.

Due to the fact my FACE got abused by my surfboard.

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For all of you who don’t know I am from Australia and love to surf, however…..the ocean is unforgiving.

The ocean is especially unforgiving when you place man and it’s toys into the equation.

I got caught in the white wash after falling off a wave, it felt like my board was dragged in front of me and as I came

to breathe a breath of fresh air BAMM!!! THE BOARD SMACKS DOWN on my face and i instantly think “FUCK, NOT TODAY!”

So I went to the lifeguard and checked out how bad it was, lifeguard said it’s fine just a bit swollen… was not bleeding a whole lot at all.

Asked if I could go back surfing as I showed no signs of dizziness and my nose felt like it was not broken. So got a few more waves with my brother and dad and it was great fun!! absolutely amazing waves down in ocean grove main beach.

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Loved spending time with my dad and brother, as it’s a time when I actually feel connected with them and I am happy surfing brings you closer with friends and family as a shared experience.

Hope you enjoy the photo's 🙂

Stay Safe.