Nice post @alkhemst, I grew up in the surf so I know the feeling! Although my 'monster' waves were lucky to be a few feet high. Surfing offers so many life lessons.
PS - my original reply seems to have disappeared - so apologies if my comment appears twice
Thanks @bec-on-the-block Certainly is heaps of lessons I've learnt out in the surf... And I'm still learning everytime!