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RE: Surfers On Steemit: Where Are You? Building A Worldwide Surf Community On The BlockchainšŸ„

in #surfing ā€¢ 7 years ago

45 years ago my wife to be told me she was a surfer. That summer we went to the ocean and I discovered she couldn't even swim. She still can't surf, but she has learned to tread water.

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Oh, so she told you she was a surfer but didn't even swim? Well actually, if you are reeeeeeaaaally good you don't need to swim. You paddle out and surf. If you didn't ever fall down you wouldn't need to swim. But I guess nobody ever made that :-))
Water is a strong element. If you don't like it you'd rather keep away. Waves and currents can be very dangerous, especially for people who are not familiar with their behavior. It even happens to me that a wave surprises me from time to time. When I paddle too much on the insight and it breaks directly over my head, this can be really annoying, haha! I think I won't ever have a water-drinking-problem in my life, and the salt level in my body is very stable, too šŸ˜„

Have a great day - with or without swim!