My dad first took me surfing when I was five years old. I surfed off and on after that, but never consistently. I moved away from Huntington Beach, CA to go to UPENN and then later moved to Nashville, TN. Four years ago, I got my fix with a 10 week trip to Costa Rica. On two of the days surfing Playa Grande, I was fortunate enough to get some shots from a professional photographer. They already had one day of photos when they found my wife on the beach and let her know they were shooting me. They gave us all the info needed to purchase the rights to the photos from the local surf shop. It was the first time I had ever seen myself surfing after almost 30 years. I wanted to share them with you as well.
Day 1
First, I'll start off with the most embarrassing sequence. I actually remember this wipeout very clearly. There was a bald spot of missing wax on my board that day, and it got me good.
Okay, now that we're passed that embarrassment...
This next one may not look like much, but I remember it. I remember being right under the curl as it broke just over my head. There are few experiences in the world more amazing than catching a big wave and being in the right place at the right time.
I caught a lot of great waves that day.
Day 2
My little girl, 4 years ago.
On this sequence, I actually got snaked by this guy. "Snaked" means he dropped in on me. I had the right of way by being the first person on the wave, closest to where the wave was breaking. Karma worked out well here, because he ate it. :)
As a "goofy" foot, I surf with my right foot forward. That's a great advantage when catching a "left", meaning you go left just as the wave breaks.
While I was out surfing, my wife @corinnestokes was watching our two kids (we have three now).
Here's another sequence I'm quite proud of. Good bottom turn and good top turn.
Some more strong bottom turns.
So there you have it. The first pictures I ever saw of myself surfing. When you're out in the water, giving it everything you've got, you never know if you look like a fool or at least a competent participant. I'm actually quite happy with how these came out. Other than that epic wipeout sequence, I think I did pretty well for a computer programmer. :)
If you'd like to know more about our 10 weeks in Costa Rica, please check out my wife's post on our whole trip. She'd surely appreciate an upvote, if you enjoy it.
Thanks!
Are there any other surfing Steemians out there? Do you surf? Is it something you've ever wanted to try? Have any questions?
Be Stoked. Steem On.
Great pictures and excellent surf style, congrats! I definitely don´t have your level yet, but I am trying hard :-) Costa Rica is on my must-see-spot-list, so I´ll travel there soon for sure! Keep posting and getting this #surfing category growing.
Thank you! I'm unfortunately land-locked in Tennessee at the moment... but I'll get back to it eventually. Until then, I'll be living vicariously through the surf content here on Steemit. :)
we should plan a trip to costa rica?!?
I have never surfed before but after seeing these photo's I would love to give it a try. I've done some skim boarding and of course boogie boarding but the thrill of surfing looks to be far superior. I need to get up on a board someday!
If you do, be warned it's quite difficult. One of the most difficult sports out there, actually, and you only get a few seconds to practice at a time. I'm glad I learned young. If you do try it, go easy on yourself and expect to fail a lot. :)
Is it as frustrating as golf?! haha I have some snowboarding experience so I think that might help give me a slight edge as a first-time surfer. I appreciate the advice and inspiration. Your pictures are siiiiick !
Thanks man! Yeah, being able to board will definitely help you. Good luck!
fantastic relationship
Please don't spam people's posts based off the category used. Thanks.
sorry
Normally, I'd welcome the conversation and a link to other interesting, related stories. But I noticed you were saying the same thing to everyone. That's not a very good way to build relationships offline or online. It's all good. Thanks for the apology. :)
@lukestokes - And from all this I forgot to write ... that also swim on the board Chalupy / Poland
my photos
Maybe I can upload more :)
again sory.
which does not change the fact that your blog deserves up !
link removed.
I'm new not all embrace :)
@rkpl: nice! I love windsurfing. I used to do some of that in Newport Harbor in California a very long time ago.
As for being new, no worries there. Just treat people online as you would in person and you'll probably do fairly well.
you got skills surfing
Thanks! I surfed my brains out that 10 weeks and loved every minute of it. I hope I can get back some day.
You are pretty sick on the surf board! I want to try surfing maybe I will build enough courage and go for it:) Great Share!!!
It's a lot harder than it looks, unfortunately. If my dad hadn't taught me when I was young, I'm not sure how long it would take me to pick it up. While we were in Costa Rica, I worked a bit to teach my wife, and I was surprised she picked it up a little bit. If you have any experience wake boarding, snow boarding, or skate boarding, it will certainly help. It's also helpful to get out there with someone who knows what they are doing and can hopefully keep you from pissing anyone else off. Good luck!
I'll just be diving right into with no experience with any of those things you listed:) But my life is full of challenges and learning to surf will just be another one, Thanks!
I tried surfing exactly once. it ended with my kneecap being moved aside, my tibia being hollowed out, a titanium rod being hammered down into my now-hollow shinbone, and screwed into place at knee and ankle.
All in all probably the least successful first surfing lesson.
Good times.
Dang! That sounds terrible. I've hurt myself a lot pole vaulting, but not nearly as much surfing. Sorry to hear your experience was so rough.
When the instructor says 'it's way too rough out there for beginners but we're game if you're game' just walk away!
Hahah... wow. Yeah, no doubt.
Whoa!
I know right?
Viva Costa Riquicima!!!
Pura Vida!
Super cool man! Not sure how I missed this.
Thanks Ben! I miss way too many posts. It'll be nice when they get the follow functionality built in to the UI.
YES I am learning to surf here on Maui! It is exhilarating! Just getting out on the water yields the biggest reward.
I'm currently land-locked in TN. I miss it so.
Ah man one of the best places i ever surfed (sponged) was a place in Nicaragua called "Yankees." Sick, fast wave that bounces off a cliff and doubles up into a huge bowl causing it to pitch super far and you can only get into it on a body board bc how fast it is. There were a few surfers trying to get in but they could only sit there and watch. To this day, the best session i ever had.
Nice! Reminds me of The Wedge in Newport Beach.
(wikicommons)
Sounds like you had a great session.
I also love to surf! where in Costa Rica is that?
stoked--- I travel and surf in Costa Rica like its my second home! have loads of murals out there and many more to coming in the next month !
Yeewwww! sick photos
Hi, i'm a surfer from Warner Beach South Africa. Been surfing for 30+ years now. Its nice to read post from fellow surfers on Steemit. Will follow and look forward to more pics. I shall be posting shots from South Africa too.
It's a truly incredible place.
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