It's been dubbed Chiantishire, because they decamp from grim England and set up in villas to get a summertime of sightseeing, swimming and socializing. But Tuscany is big and there are hidden places to discover if you don't need to mix with your fellow Brits. The landscape, recognizable as the backdrop of innumerable Renaissance Madonnas, remains relatively unspoiled, dotted together with historical farmhouses that have been superbly restored. The towns of Florence and Siena harbor a lot of recognizable cultural references, but middle ages hill top cities such as Montalcino and Pienza appear entirely untouched by time.
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Foodies will rejoice in the superlative Tuscan wine and food on offer in the numerous restaurants and wine bars. You will find cheaper alternatives if you visit in low season, but bear in mind that Tuscany is one of Italy's most expensive areas.
I was lucky enough to enjoy a few memorable stays. I visited a seventeenth century villa surrounded by cypresses, olive trees and vineyards, managed by the owners and Riccardo Baracchi. The 20 spacious rooms, some with contemporary paintings and 4 poster beds, have initial tile floors and are furnished with antiques and tapestries. The atmosphere is informal and relaxed. There is a Michelin starred restaurant serving. The outdoor patio has a spectacular view of Cortona and the valley. The majority of the veggies and herbs are grown in the hotel's garden, and the wine list contains the estate's own red wine, Smeriglio. On a rise overlooking the fertile Chiana valley, a few miles west of Cortona, a pink villa has been opened as a 9 room hotel in 2000. Among the owners, Philip Robinson, has been production designer around Four Weddings and a Funeral and Howards End. There's a swimming pool, and 3 other smaller villas are available to get weekly rental.
Next I ended up in a Rocco Forte hotel in Florence designed by Olga Polizzi, with 88 bedrooms and 14 suites in an elegant, classic modern style. Centrally situated around the Piazza Repubblica, the hotel is a short walk from the Uffizi Gallery and the Ponte Vecchio.
Tuscany is a land of enchanment and relax…you can’t go wrong!
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