My last few posts were about restaurants and food, so now it’s only appropriate we turn to drink – wine, port and beer! My post Portugal #8 – Restaurante Tipico introduced us to the topic but only briefly, so here’s some more information for you.
Porto, from Gaia, the home of Port
In olden times (1970s and 1980s!) in North America our only exposure to Portuguese wines was Mateus and port, and for most it was just Mateus, which was a popular party drink with the ladies, thus also with the guys! Where I live we have a very large and efficient state-run liquor monopoly and until about 5 years ago it had very few Portuguese wines on offer, so I really wasn’t familiar with them at all. The liquor stores now have a lot more, as it seems their buyers discovered the wines of Portugal at just about the same time I did.
Not being familiar with Portuguese wines we were very surprised when we first visited in 2012 to find so many wines on offer. Researching the topic I discovered that the making of wine has a long history in Portugal, extending back before the Romans, who are credited with commercializing it. Portugal also has many unique grapes such as Touriga Nacional, and was the first country to develop an appellation system to protect its industry, about two centuries before this happened in France! So a very mature and diverse sector.
Most of you will have heard of the Douro region, which is the centre for Port, but there are many other wine regions, Alentejo, the closest to the Algarve, being the one I am most familiar with. But we have also had wonderful wines from Setubal, near Lisbon, and Dao, which is a bit further north. In 2015 we took a road trip from Albufeira almost directly north through the interior up to the Douro. In the Douro I expected to see many vineyards, but I was shocked to see how many there were in Alentejo, literally miles and miles of land under the vine, like you would see in Australia’s Barossa or other large wine-producing regions. In fact, Portugal consistently ranks 11th amongst the wine-producing countries, just after Germany, so it does have a large and I think quality wine industry.
High-end winery, Herdade dos Grous
Portugal also has a well-developed beer industry, which also traces its roots back to Roman times. There are a number of breweries but the two common brands, at least in the Algarve, are Sagres and Super Bock.
Where should you buy? In the tourist areas there are many small liquor stores (‘garrafeira’ – which also means wine cellar) but these have a small selection, focused mostly on liquor, and my overall impression is the prices are higher. Occasionally you will find a larger shop, not quite the ‘big box’ warehouse like in Florida for example, but on that model; the one I know in Albufeira, unlike any other store I’ve found of any type in Portugal, doesn’t include the tax in the posted price, so after an hour pondering your selections you do get a bit of a shock at the cash when they add on the tax! Be aware!
I get almost all my wine and port (and beer) at the supermarket. The Modelo Continente on the ring road has a very large selection, well organized by region, and occasionally has very good sales, for example featuring the wines of a specific region like Estremadura. The Intermarche in our neighbourhood, Santa Eulalia, has a much smaller selection although still quite adequate, and also has a product consultant in-store several times a week, though she will try to sell you the featured brands. Both these stores organize the wine not just by region but also by price, with the least expensive on the bottom shelf, the prices increasing as you go up to the next shelf. On the bottom shelf you can get a perfectly acceptable wine for 2 Euros, and can often find a great wine that fits your taste at an excellent price; on the middle shelves 3 or 4 Euros will get you a very good quality wine. The typical mark-up in restaurants is about double, so if you have a favourite wine you might find it at a restaurant for twice what you would pay at the supermarket, and vice-versa if you find a wine at the market you first enjoyed with a nice meal dining out. There are also some wines sold in 3 or 4 liter boxes, so you may find a wine you like is available this way, and you can save a bit and have to make less trips to the shop! Beware however the Spanish box wines, because they are generally low-quality wines the Spanish won’t drink and can’t flog in North America!
The Douro, on a grey day
Another option is winery tours. Some are very high end, and include accommodation and meals which showcase the wines. We have not done the overnight package, but for example we had a wonderful lunch at Herdade dos Grous, near Beja a couple of hours north of Albufeira. Through a friend, who is a guide, we also visited Sir Cliff Richard's winery, Adega do Cantor (singer’s winery), just west of Albufeira in Guia behind the large AlgarveShopping centre. There are countless other wineries where one can visit, taste and buy. Check on TripAdvisor for recommendations!
If you like wine you will find wonderful choices in Portugal. It almost goes without saying that you will also find wonderful Ports, because this country, the Douro and Porto city, is the home of Port! I have yet to find a wine or a Port that disappointed! And the beer is decent too! Enjoy!
In my next post we’ll visit a pastelaria for desserts and coffee.
Congrats @brightongreg. Your photo made it on the Top Photographs Daily Selection today :). Upvoted and Resteemd!
https://steemit.com/photography/@mycamerashots/best-photos-trail-21st-july-2017-2017721t11323288z
Cool - first time for me!
that's great news about your work being selected for top photographs dailyselection... well deserved.. excellent post about the wines of Portugal. I didn't know you were a vinebuff ! excellent writing and the photography to match :) upvoted of course
Thanks for the response. Spent some time in Europe so learned to enjoy wine there, live near a wine region in Canada now so it's also interesting. When we travel we like to try local wine but also beer. You should look at my other Portugal posts - have you been there for a holiday?
nice one, @brightongreg is undervalued and needs a bit of encouraging.. massive photo talent !
you would love the ruby port of La Palma in the Canary Isles, one of the most delightful drinks I've ever tasted and they give rather generous measures.. fascinating history about when Malbec nearly died out in Europe in the 17th century due to a blight.. they had a stash of vines in La Palma and they saved the grape from certain extinction. although of Spanish ownership, the canaries are mid atlantic off the coast of north africa !
Trying to get back to Portugal at least one more time and possibly use it as a base to visit Azores and Canaries. Too many places to see (and photograph) and not much time left!
Beautiful photo i love it @brightongreg
thanks! if you are interested in Portugal see the other posts in the series, also some good photos there.
I have in laws from Portugal and they tell me how beautiful it is there your posts are confirming that for me great photos and very informative
thanks! where are they from?
Having a brain fade i will have to ask them when I see them in a couple of weeks
cool, just like to know in case I've been there or plan to go in the future!
Port wine is one of my favourites! Put 2cl in one half of a melon -> awesome :)
thanks - reminded me I need to edit, I have yet to find a bad port or a bad wine there!
I am not a beer drinker, but port! And the wine. The first time I had Sangria ws in Portugal and I fell in love. Oh, and ginjinha!! Now that is to die for!
Not familiar with that last one, just googled it, will have to look for it next time!
Sometimes you can buy it with whole cherries in the liqueur. It is heavemly.
Both posts are great :) you should use the tag travelmap though to get curated once I restart it :)
Thanks for feedback. I will use the tag!
Great :)
great pics ... seems to be very nice in porto. i love portugal - unfortunately i had only a few days there but i have to go back, maybe next year... :)
Thanks for feedback.
If you do go back check out my other posts if you haven't already - 10 before this one, 2 after, and hopefully more to come!