That very moment in Bali, Indonesia, I became aware of world's most wonderful sport and hobby, surfing! At that moment I was surfing in the ocean at Padang Padang beach. It was during the sunset hours, the water was quiet behind the reef break and I was laying down on my surfboard. I wanted this to become my life passion! The sun in my face, the sound of the waves and the rhythm of the ocean. I don't know whether this corresponds to you, but I believe surfing shouldn't just be a dream.. I believe it should become a reality! This summer I'm heading back to Indonesia and one of my main reasons is to improve my surfing skills. What do you need to know about surfing and why do I believe that you shouldn't miss out on this life experience? Read on!
Photo: Padang Padang Beach, Bali
Why you shouldn't miss out on this life experience?
1. Feel Alive!
Being in out there in the water will make you feel free! Being out there in the water made me feel alive. It's so energizing, the sun in your face and the water surrounding you.
2. Perfect Workout
While doing it you might not realize that surfing is a perfect workout. Paddling your way to the wave break is exhausting and balancing your board will require quite some effort. It will help you get focused and improves your stamina. Taking the right wave and standing up at the right moment requires focus and a lot of energy!
Photo: surfer in Phuket, Thailand (source: click here)
3. The Best Way To Clear Your Mind
Surfing requires patience. You will have to wait for your turn to take the right wave. That's the only thing you actually have to think about. The best way to forget your daily problems is to face bigger challenges and have a good workout that fills your mind!
4. Exciting and satisfying it is!
Adrenaline injections pump your heart and blood. Like with most extreme sports, you have to take the risk. It's actually what makes surfing so exciting. You have to be aware of the wave's strength, avoid hitting the reef and avoid hitting other surfers around you. Standing up on your board and successfully take a wave, the feeling... it's hard to describe, a feeling of freedom and satisfaction!
5. Get A Tan
The water reflects sunlight which doubles your tanning speed. Being in the water also cools you off so it's not too difficult to stay in the sun for a longer while. But, be careful and do not get burned!
6. Cheap
Lessons might not be cheap, but surfing itself costs almost nothing. Of course, you might need to purchase a surfboard, but once you've got the gear... it costs you nothing. During holidays, hiring a surfboard will cost you some money but it shouldn't be too expensive. Lessons might be expensive but I still believe the best way to learn is to just watch others, go surf and learn from your mistakes.
7. Surfing Takes You Places
You might think that you can't surf because you might feel like you're limited by the place you live. Yeah, in many cases it's true, but also in many cases people forget that surfing can be done almost anywhere near the sea. It's mainly dependent on the circumstances. On www.magicseaweed.com you can check the surf forecast on beaches worldwide and you will realize that surfing is possible anywhere. So once you get better and get friends whom surf, it will take you places because you have an amazing reason to go anywhere... TO SURF!
I hope that I convinced you to try this sport out. It's actually not just a sport, it's so much more! I'm happy that I've tried surfing and that I continued doing so. In 2 weeks I'm flying back to Indonesia and I will continue surfing. I hope to improve my surfing skills during the 2 months I'm spending there. One day I will become a professional surfer, believe me!
Read my previous travel posts!
Travel Story #3; Croyde, England, A Beautiful Place With A Rich History Of Surfing! By chrisadventures
Travel Story #2: Indonesia, Amed, Diving In A Japanese Shipwreck! by chrisadventures
Travel Story #1: Indonesia, Nusa Penida: A Touch Of Paradise, The Place Less Travelled! by chrisadventures
Follow @chrisadventures for more exciting and inspirational stories!
#travel #sports #surfing #life #inspirational
Upvoted ave followed, but only to live vicariously through. I know I'm going to die by shark so it's best to stay out of the ocean for me. 😂
Just remember that more people get killed by coconuts than by sharks :-)! Thanks for reading btw!
LMFAO! That's hilarious! Thanks for the Laugh !
Bali is perfect for surfing. Waves for all skill-level, no need for wetsuits and calm community)
Yes, the water temperature is amazing. And the different types of waves make the island perfect for any skill level! Thank you for reading :-)
thank you for sharing
Thank you for reading @enomujjas!
Surfing is indeed fascinating, it's a way of life and this is from someone that has never been on a surf board. Never say never right .
Any shark encounters ?
Luckily not while surfing and I hope to keep it that way. When I was diving I did see small ones. But the ones I saw weren't that scary at all! Thank you for reading @kingmatan!