Just saying 'Saudi Arabia' conjures up images of a land of great adventures, of lost treasures to be discovered, you think of magical carpet rides, genie's in bottles, Aladdin, Lawrence of Arabia and my hero Indiana Jones.
Having spent almost a year there it still has that magical appeal. Many a time a smile would be brought to my face as I would be driving through the desert, not a soul to be seen and then out of nowhere a herd of laid back happy camels would appear fluttering their long sandy eyelashes and bopping slowly up and away over the sand dunes obviously going somewhere known to them but unknown to us two legged folk.
Saying that driving in Saudi can be quite dangerous as I have witnessed many an accident unfold, especially on this small stretch of road where I used to travel to work in Raz Al Khair, a deadly 27km single lane stretch with a steep verge either side and where tragically many a life has been lost, looking at happy camels bopping around here and you would only be asking for a close shave!
Speaking of shaving and not having much hair left on the top my head, I decided it was time to get a wee haircut , having grown up in the south of Ireland in a beautiful town called Clonmel a barbers, 'Willy Walshs' down the narrow street would normally be a safe bet but having gone over three months without a trim it was time to venture out of my comfort zone, so off through the desert I go in search of a barber and then in the distance on the horizon dark skies appear, having not seen a drop of rain in a long time and I guess missing Ireland I head in that direction for some refreshing raindrops on my freckled farmer tanned arms, but oh oh! This was no rain cloud! This was to be my first sandstorm! So being Irish I venture deeper into it thinking this could be cool, never done this before John!Then thud! Straight into a sandbank, still daytime but as pitch as black as a hairy mans back outside I sit there for 2 hours thinking this wasn't such a 'cool' idea after all...eventually as the sky lifted I backed the vehicle out and continued on the pilgrimage in search of a barbers.
Finally just after sunset I come across a small laydown area with a couple of old petrol pumps and group of elderly Saudi men peering at me suspiciously as I get out of my car, then I spotted a little sandy worn portacabin with mystical Arabic writing over the door with a picture of a scissors, so in I walk to silence,confronted by this thin, tall and tanned skinned elderly man with a long grey beard dressed in white, he points to the chopping chair, not saying anything myself as not knowing much Arabic I proceed with trepidation and sit down while grasping tight to both arms of the chair, bad idea! I'm a gonner I start thinking as he pulls out this shiny sharp blade, heats it up with a Zippo lighter and starts raising it slowly up to my neck...... Thump thump thump thump my heartbeat is going through the roof! Knowbody knows I'm even here! Maybe he has me confused with someone else! My phone has no reception! Start thinking of all the triller and action movies I've seen! All the bad news stories you hear! Bear Grylls survival documentaries haven't prepared me for this! Oh no this is it! Then in a deep calm voice he says "welcome sir, a number two blade back and sides with a bit of top?" I start laughing to myself inside, just another day John, another experience, another moment to treasure.
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(The photos below are from when i head to go look at a potential project in KAUST University where one of Saudi's largest manmade lake is.)
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